Following his grueling 145-day solo ascent of Mount Hunter’s South East Spur in 1978, Johnny Waterman’s life took a troubling turn. As his personal struggles intensified, a new team emerged to attempt the formidable route. Peter Metcalf, Glenn Randall, and Pete Athens set their sights on doing the climb in alpine style.

Thanks to Jon Waterman and Glenn Randall for their help in creating this story.  For more on the story of Johnny Waterman, check out Jon’s book,  In The Shadow of Denali.

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Recorded and produced by Evan Phillips
Music curated using Artlist and Epidemic Sound

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In 1978, an iconoclastic climber named Johnny Waterman spent 145 days soloing (and traversing) Mount Hunter. It was one of the boldest and strangest mountaineering feats of all time. But what could have been a launch pad into acclaim and prominence, turned into a descent of infamy and madness.  Meanwhile, a group of 3 young gun alpinists prepared to attempt the same route in alpine style.

Thanks to Jon Waterman and Glenn Randall for their help in creating this story.  For more on the story of Johnny Waterman, check out Jon’s book,  In The Shadow of Denali.

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Recorded and produced by Evan Phillips
Music curated using Artlist. 

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The post Ridge of Madness I Part One appeared first on The Firn Line.

While working on an upcoming 2-part series, I stumbled onto this interview with Alaskan author and adventurer, Roman Dial. We recorded this back in November 2017 and for some reason, I never got around to publishing it. Roman is a natural storyteller, so I’ve decided to leave this pretty raw with minimal editing. If you enjoy stories of adventure and unique characters from Alaska, this episode is for you.

Read Roman’s book, The Adventurer’s Son: A Memoir

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Recorded and produced by Evan Phillips
Music curated using Artlist. 

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A few weeks ago I interviewed North American alpinist, Clint Helander, for a deep-dive feature I’m working on for The Firn Line.  At the end of the conversation, I wanted to have a little fun.  So we did a quick-fire back and forth on what we think the top 5 traits of an alpinist are.  It’s a short conversation, but it’s packed with knowledge and a good a bit of humor.

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Recorded and produced by Evan Phillips
Music curated using Artlist. 

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Will Stanhope is a Squamish-based rock climber, who is known for his free solos, big adventures, and witty sense of humor. All of those avenues are explored in this conversation. We talk about his inspirations as a kid, how he got into climbing, who inspired him as a young climber, his most memorable free solo climbs, his memories of the late Marc Andre Leclerc, and more.

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Recorded and produced by Evan Phillips
Music curated using Artlist. 

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The Cassin Ridge is the ultimate classic line on Denali, rising almost 10,000 directly up the middle of the South Face. First climbed in 1961 by a large Italian expedition led by Riccardo Cassin, the route continues to be a testing ground for alpinists to this day.

Recorded and produced by Evan Phillips
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During a stretch of amazing weather and conditions in April, 2024, Suzanna Lourie and her partner, Olga Dobranowski, made an ascent of the ultra-classic Ham & Eggs route on The Moose’s Tooth.  

The Moose’s Tooth is a rock peak in the Central Alaska Range, 15 miles southeast of Denali. Despite its low elevation, it’s a challenging climb due to its large rock faces and long ice couloirs. Its name comes from its structure, resembling a moose’s tooth with its long summit ridge and steep drops. The true summit is usually reached via steep couloirs on the southwest, as the west ridge route is very difficult.

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When Fred Beckey and Ed Cooper climbed the Northwest Face on Forbidden Peak in 1959, they had to have known it was a classic route.  It had all the features mountaineers look for in a North Cascades alpine climb: an arduous and long approach, tricky navigation over crevasse-laden glaciers, and steep exposed climbing to a sharp pointed summit.  

Since that time, the Northwest Face of Forbidden Peak has become an ultra-classic mountaineering route, and is still regarded as a challenging climb for modern adventurers.

Written and produced by Evan Phillips
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Then There Was You – Beneath The Mountain
My Home – Louis Island
Growth – Kyle Preston
Open Water – Alex Munk
A Ghost In Someones Body – Ben Reener
Light Storm – Taxi Letter Writers
Horizon – Dear Gravity

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Today, we’ll get to know Seattle-based author, climber, skier, and historian, Lowell Skoog. Lowell is a fixture in the Northwest outdoor scene, and has been exploring mountains in the Pacific Northwest for 60 years. In this conversation, we’ll talk about Lowell’s early years of exploration in the Cascades, some of the folks who’ve inspired him over the years, as well as his recent book, Written in The Snows.

Lowell is an encyclopedia of information when it comes to the Northwest and Cascade Mountains, and you’ll be hearing from him more this season. But for now, enjoy this conversation with Lowell Skoog.

Written and produced by Evan Phillips

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When Jamie Logan and Mugs Stump first ascended Mount Robson’s Emperor Face in July 1978, it was hailed as one of North America’s greatest alpine climbs.  Since then, the face has continued luring some of the world’s best climbers, maintaining it’s reputation as one of North America’s most enduring alpine walls.

Written and produced by Evan Phillips

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Additional music curated using Artlist. Artists include: Andrew Word, T Asco, Yehezkel Raz, Marshall Usinger, Evert Z, Steven Beddall

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The post The Emperor Face appeared first on The Firn Line.

Begguya – Mount hunter – at 14,537 feet tall – a massif that is dominated in scale by its neighbors Sultana and Denali – but a mountain that dominates the minds and hearts of many a mountaineer.

And this was the case for Alaskan alpinist Clint Helander in the spring of 2021 when on a hunch, he called August Franzen – a young Alaskan climber who’d been making a name for himself on the frozen waterfalls of Valdez – with a proposition.  To attempt a monolithic line on the unclimbed West Buttress of Mount Hunter.  

Franzen agreed instantly, and in May of 2021, the duo flew into Denali Basecamp.  The route, which starts with a 9 mile ski from Denali basecamp, weaves its way up and through the broken labyrinth of the Ramen Icefall, up to a dicey corniced ridge, then through a plum line up the golden granite buttress, before finally topping out on a plateau below the south summit.

But on that first trip, many lessons had to be learned.  First, Helander took a 30 foot crevasse fall in the icefall.  Able to extract himself, the team was shaken, but continued on.  19 hours later, they shivered through a miserable night a few pitches up the crux buttress – a lone soggy sleeping bag shared between them.  Mentally and physically exhausted, they retreated the next morning.  But as they took the edge off with whisky in basecamp a day later, the duo made a pact.  They would return to finish the west buttress.

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In the summer of 1995, John Climaco and Andrew Brash were young dirtbag alpinists looking for the adventure of a lifetime.  The duo certainly got that and more when they flew to Pakistan for an attempt on  Chogolisa (7,665 m / 25,148 ft).  Turns out, the climb was only a small part of the journey.

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Notes

Special thanks to John Climaco

Learn more about John and Andrew’s 1995 expedition to Chogolisa:

Dangerous Liaisons

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For mountaineers and adventurers, there’s a rich history of exploration in and around Alaska’s Denali National Park.  And although the park is mostly known for the hordes of people who attempt to climb Denali each season – few have ever thought about circumnavigating the Denali, Foraker (Sultana) and Hunter (Begguya)  massifs – let alone in winter.

The first circumnavigation-like explorations, of non-indiginous people, came around the turn of the century, around the 1900’s.  These trips were fueled mostly by the hunt for scientific knowledge or, of course, gold.  

In 1899,  the first non-native overland traverse of the Alaska Range was made by 1st Lt. Joseph Herron’s Army expedition. They took a route via the Yetna and Kichatna Rivers.

In 1902, USGS geologist Alfred Brooks first explored the southern aspect of  the area on a mapping expedition, traveling through and eventually naming Rainy Pass.

Then, in 1903, a 6-member expedition led by Dr. Frederick Cook attempted Denali’s Northwest Buttress, reaching an elevation just under 11,000 feet. Starting in the small village of Tyonek, the team completed the expedition by circumnavigating, possibly unintentionally, the Denali-Foraker massifs.

In the ensuing years, most of the exploration focus in and around Denali National Park was on mountaineering.  

Then, in 1978, the first circumnavigation on skis of Denali was made from April 7-28 by Ned Gillette, Galen Rowell, Alan Bard and Doug Weins via Kahiltna Pass, Peter’s Glacier, Muldrow Glacier, Traleika Glacier and Ruth Glacier.

But it wasn’t until 1995, that a complete circumnavigation of the Denali-Foraker massifs – in winter – would be made.

On February 17 of that year, Daryl Miller and his partner, Mark Stasik, embarked on a journey that would last 45 days, and traverse 350 miles.  The route, which started in Talkeetna, followed the winding Chulitna River, to the massive Muldrow Glacier, to an area north of the Wickersham Wall known as little Siberia, across the Yetna, Lacuna and Kahiltna Glaciers, on and around toward the Peters Hills and finally back home to Talkeetna.  The duo would endure bone-chilling temperatures and relentless wind, waist deep sugar snow and terrifying glacier terrain, as well as unrelenting hunger.

But when it was all said and done, the journey would become an Alaskan classic that is yet to be repeated.  

Here’s Daryl Miller’s retelling of this amazing story.

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Map Artwork by Mike Clelland

Special Thanks to Daryl Miller

Written and produced by Evan Phillips
Edited and mixed by Pod Peak
Music by Evan Phillips

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The post Around The Heart Of The Alaska Range appeared first on The Firn Line.

You know that saying – “they just don’t make em’ the way they used to”.  I guess you could call it a quintessential American expression.  In the climbing world, It conjures up icons like Lynn Hill, Jim Bridwell, Catherine Freer, and Royal Robbins – just to name a few.

You know you have someone like that in your life.  It’s someone who’s tough.  They have a determination and resolve that’s made of granite.  There’s something about them – maybe you can’t quite put it into words – but they just have an aura or presence around them – that’s larger than life.  

When you meet these people, they leave an indelible mark on you.  And that’s exactly how I felt this last spring, after spending a few days with a guy named Daryl Miller.  

If you spent any time climbing on or around Denali back in the 1990’s and early 2000’s – surely you came across Daryl – or at the very least, you knew who he was.  Back then, Daryl was the Chief Climbing Ranger on Denali – and even then, he was larger than life.  His aura was equal parts military, mountaineer, and Marlboro Man – a steely gaze with a perpetual squint in his eyes from too much glacier sun.  

But Daryl wasn’t just known for his daring mountain rescues.  In February 1995, he and his partner Mark Stasik walked out of Downtown Talkeetna, and embarked on one of the wildest expeditions in Denali Park history.  When the grizzled and emaciated duo returned 45 days later, they had become the first party to circumnavigate Denali National Park in winter – a rugged 350 mile journey that has never been repeated.

But Daryl’s life journey didn’t end with Denali.  In 1997, he was diagnosed with Parkinson’s disease – a condition that ultimately forced him to shift gears in his career, and eventually retire from the Park Service in 2008.

These days, Daryl lives a simpler life in Anchorage with his wife Judy and their two dogs, Raven and Jago.  When I came to visit Daryl for the first time in March, he led me to a back room where we would conduct the first of our three interviews.  The room is adorned with relics of a life well lived: photos of climbing expeditions near and far.  Military medals, black and white stills of a young Rodeo clown.  And a young man, barely out of high school, in combat fatigues in Vietnam, circa 1965.  

I quickly realized that I didn’t know much about Daryl.  But what I did know is that he’d probably lived 9 lives.  The only question was where to start.

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Cover Photo:  Daryl after a 30 hour search for a patrol member above 15,000 feet on Denali, May,1994

Special Thanks to Daryl Miller

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Music by Evan Phillips and Tim Easton

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The post Larger Than Life: Daryl Miller appeared first on The Firn Line.

Today we head into the Kichatna Spires – a compact subrange of monolithic granite towers located just south of Denali.

In early June, North American climbers Graham Zimmerman, Dave Allfrey and Whit Magro, headed into the Kichatna’s – their sites set on a new line up the beautiful northwest face of the ranges namesake – Kitchatna Spire.

Although many parties attempting lines in the Kichatna’s get hammered by bad weather and poor conditions, the trio was blessed by the mountain gods – which allowed them to make a first ascent in an enjoyable and safe manner.

The climb, which the team named ‘The Pace of Comfort’ – takes a steep line left of the 1979 Embick and Bridwell route, and goes at Grade VI  5.10, A3+, M6, 70° snow.

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Notes

Special thanks to Graham Zimmerman

More info about ‘The Pace Of Comfort’ on Kichatna Spire:
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The post The Northwest Face of Kichatna Spire appeared first on The Firn Line.

The western Chugach – the mountains surrounding Anchorage and the Mat-su valley to the east, are a veritable playground for hikers and climbers.  Although the rock is predominantly poor in quality, the peaks are striking, sometimes rising 5,000 from the valley floor, with a variety of snow and ice lines penetrating their faces.  Historically, these peaks have been scaled by mountaineers of all skill levels.  But in recent years, skiers have started exploring some of the larger objectives – and one of the most sought after lines, is the north couloir of Mount Rumble.

Resembling a lower-elevation K2, Mount Rumble rises nearly 5,000 out of the headwaters of Peter’s Creek Valley – it’s symmetrical walls forming an almost perfect pyramid.  The North Couloir nakes it’s way up the mountain, and is consistently 40-50 degrees for almost 4,500’.  Suffice to say – it’s an epic climbing or ski line – depending on conditions of course.

In April, local Anchorage skiers and endurance athletes, Brian Harder and Lars Flora, skied the line – but the did it incredible style – making the 26 mile round trip, with over 14,000’ of elevation gain, in 13 hours round trip.

I recently caught up with Brian to hear about the experience, what he learned along the way, and some future objectives that he might explore.

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Notes

Produced by Evan Phillips
Editing & Sound Design by Pod Peak
Music & Sound Design by Evan Phillips

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The post Rumble In The Chugach appeared first on The Firn Line.

Call me old school, but nothing gets me more fired up than adding a new adventure, climbing or mountaineering book to the collection.  So I was excited last month, when Valley Of Giants: Stories From Women at The Heart of Yosemite Climbing, arrived at my doorstep.  This anthology, edited and curated by Lauren DeLaunay Miller, is a collection of 39 stories – written and told by the trailblazing, often-times under the radar, women who have been at the center of Yosemite climbing over the past century.

While the book of course features stories by well-known valley climbers such as Lynn Hill and Steph Davis, DeLauney Miller has gone to painstaking lengths to include older, more obscure – but equally important stories – as well.  The result is a rich and inspiring history of female climbing and adventure in Yosemite Valley.

I recently spoke with DeLaunay Miller, to talk about her process for putting this important anthology together.  What struck me was the amount of work, and dogged determination required – just to find the stories for the book:  Basically a combination of internet sleuthing, scouring the white pages of physical phone books, writing and sending hand-written letters, and cold-calling strangers across the country.  It’s an impressive feat, and left me feeling that DeLaunay Miller is equal parts climber, librarian, and investigative journalist.  

So i hope you enjoy my conversation with Lauren DeLaunay Miller – talking about her new anthology Valley Of Giants: Stories From Women at The Heart Of Yosemite Climbing.

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Notes

Special thanks to Lauren DeLaunay Miller 

Purchase Valley Of Giants

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This month’s trip report takes place in one of Alaska’s most remote and mythical mountain ranges: The Revelations.  First explored in the late 60’s by David Roberts and friends, The Revelations hold a mystique, and reputation, that has continued to grow over the years.  The range, which is nestled between the southwest tip of The Alaska Range, and the north and western aspects of the Aleaution, Neacola and the Tordrillo Mountains, is as remote, as it is fierce.  The jagged peaks, which average between 7 and 9 thousand feet in height, are an alpine climbers dream, with sweeping granite buttresses, firm gullies of neve snow, and ribbons and shafts of bulletproof ice.  

But for every day of good conditions and weather, there’s at least 3 days of worse weather.  And by bad I mean never ending rain and snow storms,  fog and soupy cloud cover, and relentless,  vicious, hurricane-force winds.  If that’s not enough, just getting in and out of the range requires multiple bush plane flights, sometimes costing thousands of dollars.  That is if you can even find a pilot willing to fly in there (more on that, at the end of this episode).  Let’s just say that being a Revelations climber requires a different kind of commitment.  

And this was certainly the case for North American alpinists Clint Helander and Andres Marin, who flew into the Revelations this March to attempt the east Face of Golgotha – an unclimbed, 4,000 foot granite face, laced with snow, and pierced by sinister shafts of ice. 

The mountain, which clocks in at just under 9,000’, was first climbed in 2012 by Helander and Ben Trocki, when they attempted the east face, but ultimately opted for an easier route up the southeast face.  Helander returned in 2016 with Marin, making a tricky landing directly under the face on the aptly named ‘Misfit’ Glacier.  But after a day, the snow and wind came, and the duo was nearly killed when a gargantuan avalanche destroyed their camp, forcing them to quiver behind a large, glacial erratic for days until their pilot extracted them to safety.

The duo returned in 2017 – this time with a third – Leon Davis.  That year, they made it multiple pitches up the route, finding a massive bivy cave.  They also got a look at what appeared to be the crux pitch.  An overhanging prow of rock with ice daggers hanging off the top like tentacles of an octopus.  But unfortunately, a broken crampon led to an early retreat.  

Again, Helander and Marin returned in 2018, but the conditions and vibe weren’t right.  They decided to fly out.

Finally, in March of this year, Helander and Marin returned for a fourth trip, landing on the more spacious Revelation Glacier, where they made a basecamp.  The duo then traveled over a col, and rappeled onto the Misfit Glacier, where they were able to recon the east face.  This time, the route looked to be in impeccable condition, with a decent weather window to boot.  

Here’s Clint and Andres’s account of the first ascent of the east face of Golgotha – a route they aptly named ‘The Shaft of The Abyss’.

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Notes

Special thanks to Clint Helander & Andres Marin

Produced by Evan Phillips
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The post Trip Report: The East Face of Golgotha appeared first on The Firn Line.

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know backcountry skier, advocate and adaptive athlete, Vasu Sojitra.  When Vasu was just 9 months old, his right leg was amputated due to a blood infection called Septicemia.  Although his life was forever changed, it didn’t stop him from pursuing his passions through childhood, which included skateboarding, soccer and skiing.  But things changed in college, when Vasu discovered the joy of backcountry skiing – which opened a whole new world of exploration of the natural world, and himself.  

Since that time, Vasu has immersed himself into the life of backcountry skiing, while simultaneously pursuing work as an advocate for people living with disabilities.  For Vasu,  the goal is to expand the definition of backcountry skiing to the adaptive community.  And maybe this was best exemplified in the summer of 2021, when Vasu and his teammates skied off the summit of Denali, making the first disabled ski descent of the mountain.

I recently got a chance to talk with Vasu about his extraordinary life, ranging from his challenges as a kid, to his self-customized ski outriggers, and his incredible ski descent of Denali.  All that and more, on this episode of The Firn Line.

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Notes

Special thanks to Vasu Sojitra / Cover Photo: Sofia Jaramillo

Written & Produced by Evan Phillips
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Original Music by Evan Phillips

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They say Alaska is a place of extremes.  This ranges from the stark changing of the seasons, to the scale of the wilderness landscapes, and of course, the size of the monolithic mountains.  But it also applies to the races – and I’m not talking about Nascar.  There’s the Iditarod – a grueling 950 mile dog sled race from Anchorage to Nome, that travels through bitter cold temperatures and sub-arctic, coastal storms.  There’s Mount Marathon – a blistering roundtrip run up and down a nearly 3,000 foot high peak, covered in loose rock and scree, and lined with dangerous cliffs.  And then there’s the Alaska Wilderness Classic. 

Started in the early 1980’s, The Alaska Wilderness Classic is less of a formal race, and more of a grass-roots, community driven adventure challenge.  The Classic historically traverses a mountain range, anywhere from 150-250 miles in distance, and the rules are simple: get from point A to Point B unassisted, usually by foot, ski or packraft.  Participants are expected to leave minimal impact on the terrain they cross, and are prepared to extract themselves in case of emergency.  Although the racers are often-times friends, and checking in with each other throughout the race, it’s a serious event, with potentially high consequences.  

And this was the case in the winter of 2020, when Emily Sullivan and her partner, Taylor Bracher, began their journey from the historic mining community of McCarthy, Alaska – to cross the heavily glaciated Wrangell Mountains, en route to Tok, Alaska. 

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Notes

This trip report is made possible with the generous support of The Firn Line Patreon backers.

Special thanks to Emily Sullivan

Produced by Evan Phillips
Editing & Sound Design by Pod Peak
Original Music by Evan Phillips

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The post Trip Report: The Alaska Wilderness Classic (in Winter) appeared first on The Firn Line.

It was the summer of 1996.  At the time, I was 21 years old, living in a primitive cabin in the small fishing village of Ninilchik, Alaska.  That summer, I’d landed a job working as a park ranger assistant for Alaska State Parks, and although I’d like to say I was doing something cool like building trails, the reality is that I was cleaning gnarly outhouses, packing up bags of garbage, and picking up fish guts off the beaches.  Although I was far away from any climbing, I was often mesmerized by the Aleutian and Neacola Ranges, 50 miles across the water.

So I was excited when I received a stash of beloved issues of Climbing Magazine in the mail.  As I poured through each issue, I was stopped in my tracks when I stumbled onto a story about 2 climbers who’d just attempted the North Face of Mount Neacola, the highest mountain in the Neacola Range.  The climbers, Topher Donahue and Kennan Harvey, had spent 5 days attempting a route they dubbed the Medusa Face. The photos were inspiring, and terrifying to say the least: a near vertical dark wall bigger than The Nose on El Cap.  Black rock laced with snow and ice, with no obvious crack systems to follow.  A mixture of free, aid and ice climbing, while being pummeled by relentless wind, spindrift and bitter cold.  This was wild stuff.

Although the duo didn’t reach the summit, it was an adventure  that resonated with me, and captured my imagination.  I never forgot about the Medusa Face on Mount Neacola.

That’s why I was intrigued 25 years later, when I heard about the trio of Ryan Driscoll, Justin Guarino, and Nick Aiello-Popeo, making the first complete ascent of the face.  It was stunning to me to hear about a new generation of climbers returning to a climb that had filled me with so much intrigue and inspiration over the years.  It also got me thinking about reaching out to Topher Donahue.

Luckily I did get in touch with Topher, and we recently had an engaging conversation about his life in the mountains.  We talked about a lot of things, including his attempt on Neacola.  But like a lot of climbers I talk with, it turns out there was a lot more to Topher’s life, than one trip to a remote Alaskan mountain in 1995.

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Notes

Special thanks to Topher Donahue // Cover Photo: Kennan Harvey

Written & Produced by Evan Phillips
Editing & Sound Design by Pod Peak
Original Music by Evan Phillips

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The post Vertical Quest: Topher Donahue appeared first on The Firn Line.

Adam Gellman, a young glacier guide, tells the story of his adventures on an obscure (but challenging) Alaskan peak called Mt. Wickersham.

This Trip Report is made possible with the gracious support of The Firn Line Patreon backers. To learn more about how you can become a Patreon subscriber, go to The Firn Line Patreon.

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Notes

Written &  Narrated by Adam Gellman

Produced by Evan Phillips
Editing & Sound Design by Pod Peak
Original Music by Evan Phillips

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The post Trip Report: Adventure(s) on Mount Wickersham appeared first on The Firn Line.

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know rock climber, big-wall soloist and AMGA certified rock climbing guide, Miranda Oakley. 

Growing up in Maryland, Miranda learned from a young age the values of compassion, teaching, and working with others. Born to a Palestinian mother, and an American father, Miranda grew in a family that cared deeply about social justice issues, whether it was participating in peaceful anti-war rallies, or attending meetings of the Palestine Aid Society with her mother.

Later, in her teens, Miranda started rock climbing at the local gym – and it was during that time, she discovered the calling that would begin to shape her life. In college, she started a climbing club and began making her first road trips with friends. But it wasn’t until she headed west in 2006, to the big walls of Yosemite Valley, that her life’s vision truly came into focus.

Since that time, Miranda has become a force in the climbing world. With the support of her longtime sponsor, Mountain Hardware, She’s established herself as a seasoned guide with the Yosemite Mountaineering School, while simultaneously becoming one of the most prolific female trad climbers in the United States. Some of her remarkable ascents include linking Half Dome and El Cap in a day, as well as becoming the first female to rope-solo The Nose on El Cap in under 24 hours.

I recently caught up with Miranda, to talk about her remarkable life journey. Our conversation begins during Miranda’s college years – the formative time when her passion for climbing became the driving force in her life.

Learn more about Miranda Oakley

Written & Produced by Evan Phillips
Editing & Sound Design by Pod Peak
Original Music by Evan Phillips

For more episodes, check out The Firn Line

Support the Firn Line:
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Sponsors:
Alaska Rock Gym
The Hoarding Marmot

The post A Conversation with Miranda Oakley appeared first on The Firn Line.

When people think of ice climbing in North America, the first places that might come to mind are Ouray, Colorado, Hyalite Canyon outside Bozeman, Montana – or the vast alpine region of the Canadian Rockies, just to name a few.  But perhaps the ultimate mecca for pure frozen waterfall climbing, is in and around Valdez, Alaska.  This temperate region, which encompasses the shared traditional land of the Ahtna, Athabaskan, Alutiq and Eyak cultures, averages around 300 inches of snow each year, making it a perfect environment for forming fat, blue ice routes

There’s a rich climbing history in Valdez, starting when Jeff Lowe and John Weiland made the first ascent of the ultra-classic Keystone Greensteps in 1975.  Then, in the late 70’s, a couple of young hotspot climbers from Fairbanks, Carl Tobin and Roman Dial, started ticking of dozens of first ascents, raising the standard of what was being done at the time.  In the 80’s, climber’s like Andy Embick, Chuck Comstock and Brian Teale, all Valdez locals, continued the tradition, establishing hundreds of classic first ascents.  And the old school merged with the new, when In February 1987, Steve Garvey and Jim Sweeney climbed Sans Amis, a grade 6 snow and rock line on the Keystone Wall – ushering in modern mixed climbing techniques to the Valdez area.  

Although Valdez has remained popular over the years, it’s continued to somehow stay under the radar to the mainstream climbing world.  But that hasn’t stopped a new generation of Alaskans from continuing the tradition of adventure, exploration, and first ascents in the magnificent arena.  

One of these ascents happened in Feb, 2021, during the annual Valdez Ice Festival, when Sam Volk, Ryan Sims, August Franzen, and Sam Johnson, headed back toward the remote Wartmanns Glacier.  Assisted by snow machines, and a boot pack put in a few day before by Sims and Johnson, the 200 meter, WI 6 climb was an instant classic.  Here’s Sam Volk’s trip report of that memorable outing.

This Trip Report is made possible with the gracious support of The Firn Line Patreon backers. To learn more about how you can become a Patreon subscriber, go to The Firn Line Patreon.

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Notes

Written & Produced by Evan Phillips
Editing & Sound Design by Pod Peak
Original Music by Evan Phillips 

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Alaska Rock Gym
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The post Trip Report: Oberon (Valdez, Alaska) appeared first on The Firn Line.

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know legendary mountaineer, outdoor adventurer, author and conservationist, Rick Ridgeway.  I first learned about Rick back in the early 90’s, when I read his mountaineering classic, The Last Step, which details the 1978 first American ascent of K2.  Rick was an early hero of mine, as I admired his tenacity, grit and determination in the mountains.  But it turns out, the world’s high peaks we’re just one chapter in Rick’s life: a life that’s been filled with adventure, catastrophe, enduring love, and heart-wrenching loss.  

A few months ago, I caught wind of Rick’s new memoir,  Life Lived Wild, which came out via Patagonia Books on October 26th.  The book describes the many adventures in Rick’s life –  everything from a gripping stay in a vicious Panamanian jail at 24 years old, to one of his closest companions dying in his arms on a remote Chinese mountain, to traverses in remote regions of Tibet and Borneo, to the windswept and frigid summits of Antarctica.  After finishing the book, I finally understood why Rolling Stone magazine once dubbed Rick, ‘the real Indiana Jones’.  

This last fall, I was fortunate to catch up with Rick when we talked for almost 3 hours over the course of two separate interviews.  It would be impossible to cover Rick’s whole life in such a short amount of time, so we talked mostly about his early years.  At the end of it, I was left mesmerized by Rick’s stories – but more importantly, I was touched by his honesty, his humor, his grace, and his enduring wisdom. 

Notes

Written & Produced by Evan Phillips
Editing & Sound Design by Pod Peak
Original Music by Evan Phillips & Tim Easton

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Alaska Rock Gym
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The post Life Lived Wild: Rick Ridgeway appeared first on The Firn Line.

The mountain ranges of North America are beautiful and diverse.  From the prominent glacier cones that dominate the skylines of the Pacific Northwest, to the rugged granite plutons of Yosemite Valley, and the sawtooth razor points of the Tetons, the mountains of North America are a veritable playground for mountaineers.

But for climbers and alpinists looking to put their physical, mental and psychological fortitude to the test- perhaps no range is better suited, than the Canadian Rockies.

Although the Rockies offer opportunities for mountaineers of all abilities, it’s the giant peaks, with their menacing and fearsome north walls, that have cemented the Candian Rockies as one of the world’s most storied alpine arenas. 

And today, I’m chatting with one of the rockies most accomplished, and enduring alpinists of his generation, Jon Walsh.

Jon’s alpine resume is uniquely impressive – with dozens and dozens of first ascents ranging from Patagonia, The Karakoram and The Bugaboos.  But it’s his climbs in the Canadian Rockies, particularly his routes on the legendary peaks like Alberta, North Twin, and Robson, that stand out the most (at least to me).  

I recently got a chance to speak with Jon about his career in the Rockies, and in some ways, this conversation was special.  In the next hour, you’ll hear deep wisdom, and unmatched experience.  For aspiring alpinists, and folks who are interested specifically in the Candian Rockies – you’ll want to pay extra attention.  It’s not so often you get to hear first hand accounts, from true masters of the craft.

This conversation is focused primarily on Jon’s experiences on the North walls of Mount Alberta, Robson, and North Twin – but like a lot of conversations on The Firn Line, we started by talking about Jon’s early years, and how he got into climbing in the first place.

Links:

• Mount Albert Brazeau-Walsh (Alpinist)
• Mount Robson Kruk-Walsh (Alpinist)
• Mount Robson Infinite Patience (Alpinist)
• North Twin Kruk-Wharton (Alpinist)
• The Bold And Cold (Book)
• Patreon
• Evan Phillips Music

Sponsors:

• Alaska Rock Gym
• The Hoarding Marmot

The post Deep Knowledge: Jon Walsh appeared first on The Firn Line.

It’s easier to stay alive if you know what’s out there.  Whether it’s understanding local climate patterns, snow conditions, or predators that inhabit certain areas, having even a basic understanding of what lies ahead, can be the difference between having a great day out, and not coming home at all.

And that’s the philosophy behind Emma Walker’s Dead Reckoning, which comes out June 1st on Falcon Guides.  

Dead Reckoning is an honest, gritty, and sometimes gripping collections of close-calls and accidents in the outdoors.  

Emma’s compelling narrative nonfiction covers stories and topics ranging from hiking and mountaineering, to sea kayaking and backcountry skiing, in a style that is accessible to readers of all experience levels.  

At the end of each chapter, she distills lessons learned for staying safe in the outdoors––all with a relatable, sometimes self-deprecating (and occasionally vulnerable) twist.

I recently caught up with Emma to talk about the book, why she wrote it and who it’s for, as well as digging into the creative process of being a writer and creative person.  

All that today, on this episode of The Firn Line.

Links

• Emma Walker (Website)
• Dead Reckoning (Pre-Order)
• Patreon (The Firn Line)
• Evan Phillips Music

Sponsors

• Alaska Rock Gym
• The Hoarding Marmot

The post Emma Walker’s Dead Reckoning appeared first on The Firn Line.

On today’s episode of The Firn LIne, we’ll get to know climber, alpinist and author, Kelly Cordes.  I first heard of Kelly back in the mid-90’s when I started seeing his name speckled across the pages of publications like Climbing and Rock and Ice.  Over the years, I watched from afar as he made gutsy first ascents in the Alaska Range and beyond – always pushing himself to a higher standard, that only he knew the limit of.  Later, I admired his work as senior editor of the American Alpine Journal, followed by his published books, ‘The Tower’, and the New York Times best seller, ‘The Push’, which he co-wrote with Tommy Caldwell.

But I didn’t truly get to know Kelly until we chatted, and like a lot of alpinists, Kelly has a storied past, riddled with high highs, low lows, anchored by a fascination with exploration and adventure.  So here’s our conversation.  I hope you enjoy it.

Links:
Kelly Cordes
The Tower (Book)
The Push (Book)
Patreon
Evan Phillips Music

Sponsors:
Alaska Rock Gym
The Hoarding Marmot

The post A Conversation With Kelly Cordes appeared first on The Firn Line.

In this episode of The Firn Line, I check in with author and climber, Chris Kalman.  I first met Chris after reading his excellent book, As Above So Below and since then we’ve stayed in touch, connected through climbing and creativity. 

So I was excited when Chris announced a Kickstarter to help finish up his new novella, Dammed if you don’t.  

Dammed If You Don’t tells the story of a deeply-conflicted photographer who tries to save Lahuenco_—_a remote valley in Patagonian Chile—by showing the world how beautiful it is. But in showing the world how beautiful it is, he inadvertently puts Lahuenco in peril—including a rare and mysterious salamander whose sudden appearance there forces the scientific community to rethink its understanding of evolutionary biology, and possibly human history itself.  

Chris and I recently caught up to talk about the his creative process, some philosophical discussions about the role of conservation in the outdoor community, as well as some fun talk – just about climbing.  So I hope you enjoy our conversation.

Links:
Dammed If You Don’t
Patreon
Evan Phillips Music

Sponsors:
The Hoarding Marmot
Alaska Rock Gym

The post Chris Kalman’s ‘Dammed If You Don’t’ appeared first on The Firn Line.

A Halloween special presenting three spooky stories of close calls, mountain ghosts, and unexplained sounds in the night.

The Snow Coffin

Evan tells the story of a 1996 winter attempt, and subsequent narrow escape from a remote Alaskan peak.

The Ghost of Aconcagua

Mountain endurance athlete Sunny Stroeer tells her tale of completing the first female solo speed-circumnaviagion and ascent of Aconcagua, only to have a run-in with the fabled “Ghost of Aconcagua” on her way out.

Visitors In The Night

Montana climber Justin Willis tells the gripping tale of unexplained sounds in the night during a weekend climbing excursion to Comet Mountain.

Links:

• Searching For Adolfo – Rock & Ice
• Visitors In The Night – Mountain Project
• Evan Phillips Music
• Pod Peak

Sponsors:

• The Hoarding Marmot
• Alaska Rock Gym
• Patreon (Listener Support)

The post Tales From The Firn Line appeared first on The Firn Line.

In this special episode of The Firn Line, August Franzen, a young Alaskan alpinist, shares his story of climbing through life-changing love, and heart-wrenching grief.

Links

• The Devil’s Thumb (AAJ)
• Mt. Burkett (Alpinist)
• Patreon
• Evan Phillips Music

Sponsors

• Alaska Rock Gym
• The Hoarding Marmot
• Declination Roasting

The post See You Soon appeared first on The Firn Line.

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know climber, skier, high-school teacher and coach, Eddie Taylor.

Eddie grew up in different parts of the country.  As a youth, he spent time in New Mexico, where he first learned how to ski.  It was these formative experiences, alongside trips to National Parks, that instilled a deep reverence and love for the outdoors.

During his high school years, Eddie moved out to Minnesota with his mom and sister, where he excelled in sports – playing basketball, soccer and track and field.  But he also had an aptitude for academics, and by the time he graduated, he decided to move out west to Boulder, Colorado, to attend Colorado State University.

Eddie focused on his education, majoring in both Mathematics and Chemistry.  But the allure of athletics pulled at him, and with the encouragement of some friends, he walked on to the track and field team.  It didn’t take long for Eddie to impress the coaches with his all-around abilities, and before long, he’d earned a scholarship.

By the time Eddie graduated from college, he had a lot to be proud of.  He’d accomplished a lot.  But like a lot of people in their twenties, Eddie ended up at various crossroads, pulling him in various directions.  Although his love for athletics was still there, some of the pull and excitement had waned, and various injuries forced him to dial things back.  But sometimes adversity brings opportunity.

Boulder, Colorado is a mecca for North American climbing, with classic arenas like Eldorado Canyon, Rifle, and Longs Peak just a stone’s throw away.  It didn’t take long for Eddie to get into the business, and before long, he was hooked.

Links

• Patreon
• Evan Phillips Music

Sponsors

• Alaska Rock Gym
• The Hoarding Marmot
• Declination Roasting

The post The All-Arounder: Eddie Taylor appeared first on The Firn Line.

Today’s episode is a story about adventure.  It’s a story about getting scared.   It’s a story of friendship and love.  It’s a story about self-discovery and learning from your mistakes.  But the learning in this story doesn’t take place in a formal classroom, or an online forum.  Rather, It takes place in the mountains – in a small sub-range of striking peaks and glaciers, just outside of Anchorage, Alaska. 

It was in these peaks, known as the Western Chugach, where Brendon Lee’s life changed – in more ways than one.  And like a lot of folks who end up in the north, Brendan’s journey to Alaska started very far away – on an Air Force base, in Texas…

Links

• AK Mountain
• Alaska Mountaineering Club (Scree)
• Patreon
• Evan Phillips Music

Sponsors

• Alaska Rock Gym
• The Hoarding Marmot
• Declination Roasting

The post Challenge Of The Western Chugach appeared first on The Firn Line.

I first met Tom Sardy in the summer of 1998.  My recollection is that I was camped under the granite towers of Archangel Valley in Hatcher Pass, when my friend Zach arrived, with Tom in tow, for a day of rock climbing.

Zach and I had met just a few months prior, when we’d spent three weeks guiding clients up the west buttress of Denali.  We’d become instant friends on the trip, and I was glad to be climbing out in the real world with Zach, and his friend Tom.

It must have been July, as the days were long, and the sun was powerful.  I have memories of hiking up a mossy, Tolkien-esque valley, to a prominent rock band that was split by 2 striking cracks where we climbed all afternoon.  What I remember about that day is that we laughed a lot.  And even though Tom seemed a bit shy and introverted, it was clear he was comfortable with Zach – and me as well.  Like a lot of days back then, it was a memorable moment in the mountains – being young and healthy, and just simply climbing for the pure joy of it – with friends.

I never climbed with Tom again, but I did stay in touch with Zach – and it was a few years later that I remember Zach mentioning that Tom was struggling with mental illness. 

By that time, my own life had changed dramatically – In 2002, I sustained an injury that effectively ended my climbing career. I drifted away from that part of my life.  But I still stayed in touch with Zach, and as the years went by we’d run into each other from time to time, and always be glad to catch up.  Zach would also fill me in about Tom, who by that time was living on the streets, lost in the paranoid confusion of schizophrenia.

As sad as it was, I didn’t think much of it until maybe around 2010.  One day, I stopped to grab a coffee near the REI in Anchorage when I noticed a figure moving toward me.  Something about the person looked familiar.  He was disheveled, his clothes soiled and torn, with dirty, matted hair poking out of a beanie, and a bushy red beard.  Without another thought, I approached him and said, “hey Tom, it’s me Evan”.  

Tom hesitated, but then seemed to understand who I was.  As we spoke, he had an almost euphoric expression, that seemed to look straight through me, into a world that only he could understand.  I asked him if he was ok, where he was staying, if he was hungry.  He acknowledged that he was living in the woods, but seemed nonchalant, like it was no big deal.  I offered him the $20 bill in my pocket, which he eagerly accepted.  When we said goodbye a few minutes later, I looked back as he quickly beelined for the Subway sandwich shop across the street.  

The encounter left me shaken.  Tom was a shell of the vibrant 18 year old I’d climbed with years before.  I could only imagine what it was like to live in his mind.

Over the next few years I saw Tom frequently.  Usually around the parking lot of REI, sometimes on the coastal trail, and other times – random places in Anchorage.  Tom and I spoke a few more times, but as the months went on, he started avoiding me when we made eye contact.  And then, as the months turned into years, I stopped seeing Tom all together.  Once again, life moved forward, and time went on – and then in May 2019, out of the blue, I heard a story on the radio.

It was an interview with Marin Sardy – Tom’s sister, who had recently published a memoir, The Edge Of Every Day, which detailed the story of Tom’s struggle with schizophrenia.  I listened intently to the story, taking in the information methodically, so I could try and piece together what had happened to him.  And then at the end of the segment, I understood at last, when the reporter stated plainly that Tom had died in 2014.

A few months ago I was fortunate to speak with Tom’s sister Marin, about her brother Tom, and what it meant for her to write The Edge of Every Day.  Although I learned a lot more about Tom in our conversation, I also learned that Marin’s family, like my own family – like a lot of families, has a long and complicated history with mental illness.

Links

• Marin Sardy
• The Edge Of Everyday: Sketches Of Schizophrenia
• Alaska Public Media (May 2019)
• Patreon
• Evan Phillips Music

Sponsors

• Alaska Rock Gym
• Hoarding Marmot
• Declination Roasting

The post Fragments Of My Brother appeared first on The Firn Line.

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know northwest based artist and mountain guide – Craig Muderlak.  

I first got to know Craig through his amazing illustrations in Chris Kalman’s excellent book, As Above, So Below.  His work is emotional and moody – but also uplifting and joyful at the same time.  If you’ve spent time in the mountains – or live for pure moments in nature with friends or family – his work will certainly speak to you.

When Covid 19 hit back in the spring, and lockdowns started going into effect – it hit us all.  I mean, it’s still hitting us all.  I know for myself, I went through a period of immense creativity – making music and producing multiple podcast episodes.  I felt like I needed to contribute something to the community.  But part of this push to create was inspired by seeing what others were doing – and Craig was one of the people who I drew inspiration from.  His series of pieces called ‘How To Be Alone’ are odes to memories in the mountains.  From mount Robson, To Half Dome, To Mount Rainier, To the valley of 10 peaks – looking at Craig’s work, you can almost touch the rock, hear the water trickle through the glaciers, smell the wildflowers waft through the valleys, and feel the presence of undeniable beauty in your soul.

Last month I sat down with Craig for an enjoyable conversation about his process as an artist, his life as a mountain guide, husband and newly-minted father – and the challenges of making a living as an artist – especially in the time of Covid 19.  We started out the conversation talking about Craig’s childhood, and what some of his early inspirations were.

Links

• Craig Muderlak
• Patreon
• Evan Phillips Music

Sponsors

• Alaska Rock Gym
• Hoarding Marmot
• Declination Roasting

The post A Conversation With Craig Muderlak appeared first on The Firn Line.

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know legendary North American alpinist, Steve Swenson.  

Over the course of a climbing career that has spanned a remarkable 50 years, Steve has left a lasting imprint on the world stage of alpinism, from his roots in the Pacific Northwest, all the way to the 7 and 8,000 meter giants of the Himalaya, and the Pakistani Karakoram.

His early climbs in the Canadian Rockies, which included an astounding list of classic north faces in the 1970’s, set the stage for other first ascents in Alaska and beyond.

But it was Steve’s love for the greater ranges, specifically the Karakoram, that became the biggest alpine pull in his life.  Starting with a number of attempts in the early 80’s on Gasherbrum IV, Steve continually refined his style, and partnerships, to make ascents of giants like K2, Everest, and most-recently, one of the highest unclimbed mountains in the world – Link Sar.

I recently got a chance to speak with Steve about his enduring alpine career.  We talked about his early climbs as a youngster growing up in the Pacific Northwest, as well as his new book, Karakoram: Climbing Through The Kashmir Conflict, which was released in 2017 by Mountaineers Books.  

Links

• Steve Swenson (Book)
• Link Sar (Rock & Ice)
• K2 North Ridge (AAJ)
• Evan Phillips (Music)
• Patreon

Sponsors

• Alaska Rock Gym
• The Hoarding Marmot
• Declination Roasting

The post Persistence: Steve Swenson appeared first on The Firn Line.

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know world-renowned climber and author, Margo Talbot.

Growing up on the east coast of Canada in New Brunswick, Margo was raised in what she describes as a chaotic family environment.  It was this environment, often devoid of love and compassion, that led Margo to start dreaming of a new life. But as a teenager, a new life meant hanging out away from home, oftentimes on the streets, and eventually using drugs and alcohol.

By the time Margo had become a young adult, she was fully-immersed in a toxic world mixed with chronic depression and drug addiction.  She even ended up in jail. For a lot of people, this would have been a hopeless situation.

But when Margo was 28 years old, in the midst of a highly-abusive and toxic relationship, she discovered climbing – and for her, this was the catalyst that would change her life forever.  Climbing gave Margo a release, and power, that she’d never before experienced – and within a few years, she was able to harness this new found passion, to kick her addiction, and move forward on a path to healthy living.

Since that time, Margo has forged a life that is inspiring to say the least.  In addition to being a world-renowned ice climber, she also runs a successful landscaping business, gives motivational talks to businesses and people around the world, and recently wrote a book chronicling her life called All That Glitters: A climber’s journey through addiction and depression.  

I recently got a chance to have a candid and heartfelt conversation with Margo, and although we talked about climbing, we also talked about the important moments and relationships in her life, and the personal journey that got her to where she is today.

Cover photo: Raf Andro

Links:

• Margo Talbot (website)
• All That Glitters (Book)
• Ken Wallator
• Karen McNeil
• Warren Macdonald
• Evan Phillips
• Patreon

Sponsors:

• Alaska Rock Gym
• The Hoarding Marmot
• Declination Roasting

The post Doing The Work: Margo Talbot appeared first on The Firn Line.

Last week I sat down for a remote chat with Valdez, Alaska-based ice climber, Ryan Sims.  Ryan is an Engineer with the Valdez Fire Department, but when he’s not putting out fires, both literally and figuratively, he’s part of a new generation of crushers in the ice mecca of Valdez and Thompson Pass, where some of the best ice climbing in North America exists.  

But last month, Ryan teamed up with another Alaskan, the seasoned alpine zen-master, Sam Johnson, to do some exploratory first ascents far from Valdez.  Supported with grants from Xplore Alaska and Summit Sealants, the team started out in Sam’s hometown of Seward, Alaska – where they made the second ascent of Blood Moon, and the first ascent of Varcolaci – which are both technical 245 meter routes.

From there, the duo flew down to Juneau, where they chartered a helicopter and flew into the Suicide Basin – a remote ice and mixed climbing arena on the Mendenhall Glacier.  It was there in February 2012, that Sam, Tim Banfield, and the late Ryan Johnson, established a classic grade V ice route called Bathtime For Toaster.   Sam and Johnson returned again in 2018, 6 weeks before Ryan’s passing, climbing a route called Path Of The Fallen – which turned out to be Ryan’s second to last first ascent.

This time, Sam and Ryan Sims headed into the Suicide basin, to see if they could establish another new line.  Landing in the shady and bitterly cold amphitheater, the team quickly set up their basecamp, then headed for the rime-coated wall.  Here’s Ryan’s account of the route they climbed. A route they named Infinite Jester, in honor of Ryan Johnson.

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Music by Evan Phillips
www.evanphillipsmusic.com
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www.patreon.com/thefirnline
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Sponsors:
www.alaskarockgym.com/
www.hoardingmarmot.com/

The post Trip Report: Infinite Jester appeared first on The Firn Line.

A check in with The Firn Line community during the Covid-19 pandemic. These conversations and clips were gathered between March 22-28, 2020.
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Stay safe and take care of each other.
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Music by Evan Phillips
www.evanphillipsmusic.com
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Links:
www.patreon.com/thefirnline
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Sponsors:
www.alaskarockgym.com/
www.hoardingmarmot.com/

The post In It Together appeared first on The Firn Line.

The Cascades of North America are a beautiful and diverse range of mountains. These peaks, which range from sharp, granitic towers, to glaciated and crumbly volcanoes, extend all the way from southern British Columbia through Washington and Oregon – all the way to Northern California.

And if you live in the Portland, OR area – there’s one Cascade peak that dominates the horizon – Wy’East or Mount Hood as it’s commonly known.

The mountain, which is a dormant volcano – is a literal playground for outdoor enthusiasts, from skiers, snowboarders, hikers – and of course, mountaineers.

Although Wy’East is climbed thousands of times every year up it’s easier routes, some lines offer a more challenging experience – like the Eliot Glacier, and Sandy Glacier headwalls. But no technical route is more sought after, and perhaps feared, than the Yocum Ridge.

First climbed in 1959 by Fred Becky and co., The west-facing serrated, knife-edge ridge – which splits the Reid and Sandy Glaciers, is a route for experienced alpinists – as it requires glacier travel skills, in addition to advanced snow and ice climbing techniques. The ridge is made up of 3 distinct gendarmes (or towers) composed of crumbly, volcanic rock. The top of the route is blocked by a massive, rime coated headwall, which is often skirted to the right or left.

Of the unique conditions needed to climb the Yocum Ridge, Jeff Thomas, author of Oregen High: A climbing guide, writes, “Rotten rock towers guard it’s crest. They cannot be climbed unless they are covered with a thick layer of rime ice.” He goes on to say, “Contrary to what common sense would dictate, rime ice is more solid than the rock on the Yocum Ridge. The catch is that rime is often impossible to protect. Take your ice tools, pickets, and other technology, but know that on this route the old advice still holds true; the leader must not fall.”

So it was with this mindset, that pacific northwest based alpinists Nick Sweeney and Kyle Tarry, set off to climb the Yocum in early March of this year. I recently got a chance to speak with Nick about the route – which turned out to be a significant, and once in a lifetime experience.
(Cover Photo: Kyle Tarry)
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Music by Evan Phillips
www.evanphillipsmusic.com
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Links:
www.patreon.com/thefirnline
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Sponsors:
www.alaskarockgym.com/
www.hoardingmarmot.com/

The post Fast Times at Yocum Ridge appeared first on The Firn Line.

On today’s episode of the firn line, we’ll get to know legendary rock climber and big wall ace, Paul Gagner.  Growing up in southern California in the late 60’s and early 70’s – Paul had a keen sense for adventure. This was fueled by summertime camping trips with his family, and a string of visits to National Parks.  In fact, it was a fateful trip to Grand Teton National Park in his teens, that would give Paul his first taste for climbing. His appetite for the vertical world whetted, Paul started making trips to Yosemite and climbed his first big wall in 1979.  

Since that time, Paul has continued to be a force and consistent presence in the climbing world.  A prolific all-arounder, Paul has made impressive ascents all around the globe, from the Haston-Scott on the south face of Denali, to the SE Ridge of Cerro Torre (both done in 1987), to a monumental ascent and survival situation on Baffin Island in 1995, and a more recent ascent of Sea Of Dreams on El Cap in 2015.

I recently had the chance to speak with Paul about his extraordinary career in the mountains.  We talked about some of his highlight trips and memories, as well as some of the lasting and important partnerships he’s shared with others.  All that and more, on this episode of The Firn Line.

Links:

www.Victorinox.com
www.alaskarockgym.com/
www.hoardingmarmot.com/

Evan Phillips (music)

Patreon

The post The Lifer: Paul Gagner appeared first on The Firn Line.

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll dive into the final segment of a two-part series with Canadian Rockies legend, Barry Blanchard.

In the first episode, we heard Barry tell stories of his early years in the Canadian Rockies, as well as some of the formative partnerships he developed during that time. We heard about iconic routes like The Andromeda Strain, The North Pillar of North Twin, and the east face of Mount Fay to name a few.

But there was one mountain – a mountain that is central to my own climbing career – that I wanted to spend a little more time talking with Barry about. And that majestic peak is Mount Robson.

Rising over 10,000 feet from the Fraser River Valley, Robson is the highest mountain in the Canadian Rockies. It’s also one of the most recognizable mountains in North America, if not the world, drawing hundreds of thousands of tourists each year, hoping to catch a glimpse of it’s frosty summit.

But to mountaineers, Robson is much more than a photo opportunity. Rather, it is a sacred destination. I place to test one’s self. All the mountain’s aspects feature classic routes – and some walls, like the Emperor Face – harbor some of the biggest and most challenging lines in North America.

One of these lines is called Infinite Patience – a route Barry established up the right side of the Emperor Face in 2002 with partners Eric Dumerac and Phillipe Pellet.

I asked Barry to talk about his years long obsession with Robson, why the mountain is meaningful to him, and what it took to finally make it up Infinite Patience after years of attempts.

Links

Barry Blanchard

The Calling

Evan Phillips

Patreon

The post Rockies Wisdom: Barry Blanchard (Part 2) appeared first on The Firn Line.

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll delve into the first of a two-part series with Canadian Rockies legend, Barry Blanchard.

Barry’s name is synonymous with some of the most iconic lines in the Canadian Rockies – and his first ascents on these mythical walls are many: from the Andromeda Strain – to the north pillar of North Twin – to a gutsy climb on Mount Cephran called The Wild Thing – and a visionary line of beauty up mount Robson’s emperor face.

But like many alpinists, Barry’s career has been defined just as much by strong partnerships and friendships he’s forged, than by the mountains themselves – and this was especially evident during a recent conversation we had.

We talked about everything, from his early experiences in the Rockies, to a string of ascents in the early to mid 80’s with Dave Cheesmond, and much much more.

Links

Barry Blanchard

The Calling

Evan Phillips

Patreon

The post Rockies Wisdom: Barry Blanchard (Part 1) appeared first on The Firn Line.

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know songwriter, and mountain traveller, Jason Tyler Burton.  

Growing up in a working class family on the outskirts of Lexington, KY – Burton was raised hearing the stories of his grandfather, who like many Kentuckians of times past, worked hard to make a living in the nearby coal mines of Harlan County.  Although Burton would take a much different career path, one thing he’s carried with him throughout his life, is an appreciation for the history, culture, and simplicity of his Kentucky roots.

This influence can be heard throughout Burton’s new album, aptly titled Kentuckian.  Spanning the genres of folk, alt-country and bluegrass, Kentuckian is a musical commentary on the past, present and future of rural life in Kentucky.  Americana-UK writes, “Kentuckian is a straight down the middle Americana roots album full of all the delights of the genre. Some stirring playing, acoustic rhythms and rhymes, some keening harmonies, strong blue-collar songwriting all topped off by Tyler Burton’s authentic voice.”

I recently got a chance to sit down with Jason, to talk about his new album, the ups and downs of being a working musician, as well as his love for the mountains, and living simply.  All that today, on The Firn Line.

The post Red River Roots: Jason Tyler Burton appeared first on The Firn Line.

On today’s episode of The Firn line, we’ll get to know Pacific Northwest-based alpinist Mallorie Estenson.  Growing up in the shadows of the North Cascades, Mallorie participated in athletics as a kid, with an inclination toward the more adventurous side of life.  Eventually, this led to an interest in climbing, and for the last three years, she’s been working as a mountain guide. But Mallorie’s interest in climbing goes much deeper than the guiding life.  In fact, it’s not a stretch to call her a straight up “Dirtbag” climber. And in Mallorie’s world – that’s a good thing.

I recently got a chance to talk to Mallorie about her progression as an alpinist, how that led to a recent life-changing experience in the Picket Range, as well as her future professional and personal goals in the mountains. (All photos: Tim Black)

Links

Mallorie Estenson

Steph Abegg

Evan Phillips

Support The Firn Line on Patreon

Sponsors

Alaska Rock Gym

The Hoarding Marmot

The post Alpine Progression: Mallorie Estenson appeared first on The Firn Line.

I first heard about Steve House in 1995 – when I was living at my family’s cabin on Alaska’s Kenai Peninsula.  I was 20 years old, working as a park rangers assistant and besides work – there wasn’t much to do that summer,  but chop wood, go for mind-numbing afternoon runs, and fish murky waters for salmon. Unfortunately for me, the mountains were hours away.  But one thing I looked forward to was my monthly subscription to Climbing Magazine. I cherished each magazine like a prized possession, and poured over each story again and again, dreaming of the far off ranges that captured my imagination.

It was during this time that I read about Steve House’s climb of Denali’s Father and Sons Wall – completed in a light and fast alpine style that was coming more and more into vogue in the U.S.  Soon after, I started hearing more about Steve’s adventures in Alaska and beyond – and as the years passed, I watched him transform into one of the most accomplished, and visionary alpinists of our time. 

Steve’s life and alpine climbing career were documented thoroughly in his excellent book, Beyond The Mountain. But in the last few years, House has become equally known for his work with Uphill Athlete.  And that’s how I got to connect with Steve last month, when we sat down to chat for an hour about his new book, Training For The Uphill Athlete, which he co-authored with Scott Johnston and Kilian Jornet.

But before we got into the guts of the book, I wanted to take some time to talk about about Steve’s early years as a budding alpinist in Slovenia – and how those experiences helped shape his career as an alpinist – and eventually his work with Uphill Athlete.

Links

Uphill Athlete

Steve House

Evan Phillips

Support The Firn Line on Patreon

Sponsors

Alaska Rock Gym

The Hoarding Marmot

The post Uphill Athlete: Steve House appeared first on The Firn Line.

Training for the mountains has come a long way – even from when I started out in the early 90’s.  Back then, the mantra was that actual climbing was the best training for climbing. While this is still true in a lot of ways – thinking has progressed – and a lot of that has to do with the emergence of UphillAthlete.com 

Founded by Scott Johnston and Steve House, Uphill Athlete has become a name synonymous with all things mountain sports, from trail running, mountaineering – to skimo racing.

In 2014 – the duo published Training For The New Alpinism – a manual to help alpinists translate training theory into practice to achieve any mountaineering goal.  Building on the success of that book, the team expanded their horizons, and earlier this year, along with world-renowned mountain athlete Kilian Jornet, they published “Training For the Uphill Athlete: A manual for mountain runners and ski mountaineers.” 

I recently got a chance to speak with both Scott Johnston and Steve House, to talk about their respective careers in the mountains, how the two forged an enduring friendship and partnership through training, and what it means to share their knowledge with the mountain community.

My first conversation was with Scott, and like a lot of my interviews, we started out by discussing Scott’s inspirations as a kid, and how that led to a life immersed in the mountains, fitness and training.

Links

Uphill Athlete

Scott Johnston

Evan Phillips

Support The Firn Line on Patreon

Sponsors

Alaska Rock Gym

The Hoarding Marmot

The post Uphill Athlete: Scott Johnston appeared first on The Firn Line.

Have you ever been on a path, where it seemed like everything was lining up the way it should be – things were going smooth, your life felt perfect – and then one day, seemingly out of the blue, something happened, and everything changed?  What once felt comfortable, suddenly felt unstable. What once felt like solid ground, now felt like falling through space.  

As climbers and outdoorsy folks in general,  we pride ourselves on being strong – both physically and mentally.  We’re high achievers that see in mountain faces and blank walls, problems that need to be solved.

But at the end of the day, we’re all human beings.  Not every problem can be solved – and sometimes, what’s most important is being able to look in the mirror and say, today is the day to make some changes.

In some ways, this is what my recent conversation with climber, skier and musician Kjersti Gedde was about.  We talked about her recent decision to walk away from a stable career in the outdoor industry, how music and songwriting helped her navigate through overwhelming grief, and what it means to give yourself permission to simply be who you are. 

Links

Evan Phillips

Patreon

Sponsors

Alaska Rock Gym

The Hoarding Marmot

The post New Routes: Kjersti Gedde appeared first on The Firn Line.

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know Alaskan-based wilderness adventurer, woodworker, potter and teacher, Tony Perelli.

Tony grew up in the farm country of Wisconsin, playing sports as a kid, but also developing a passion for the outdoors, fishing and canoeing with his family and grandparents. After college, Tony found himself in Alaska, working as a teacher for the Anchorage School District, and also meeting a group of friends that would introduce him to mountaineering and packrafting. These formative experiences would shape his life, and instill a deeper sense of love and respect, for the wilderness.

Since that time, Tony has continued refining his life, stripping away the excesses, and focusing instead on living simply, working with his hands, and sharing unique life experiences and connections with others.

Last winter, I got to sit down with Tony, to talk about his life in the mountains and wilderness, as well as the creative endeavors he chooses to pursue, and share with others. Like many conversations on The Firn Line, we started by talking about Tony’s inspirations as a kid – and later, how a random encounter after college, would lead him to Alaska.

Links

Tony Perelli

Evan Phillips

Patreon

Sponsors

Alaska Rock Gym

The Hoarding Marmot

The post The Creative Path: Tony Perelli appeared first on The Firn Line.

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know alpinist and author, Simon McCartney. Back in the late 70’s – the norms of mountaineering were transforming – moving away from the heavy siege style tactics of the past, to the light and fast “alpine style” path of the future. Although forward-thinking alpinists had been employing these tactics in the mountains for years, only a small group of climbers were climbing alpine style in Alaska – and two of these climbers were Jack Roberts and Simon McCartney.

Beginning in 1978, this confident and brash duo made the first (and only) ascent of the exceedingly dangerous north face of Mount Huntington. Then, in 1980 – the team upped the ante when they climbed the enormous 8,000 foot southwest face of Denali. Although the pair readily handled the technical difficulties on the face, it was the insidious onset of cerebral edema that nearly killed Simon high on the peak. Although Simon made it off the mountain after a harrowing descent of the Cassin Ridge – the experience affected him deeply, and he never climbed again. 

But the friendship Simon formed with his partner Jack Roberts never left him – and after 35 years, in a full-circle chain of events – Simon would write a book about the two life-changing climbs he’d shared with Jack. The book, titled “The Bond”, was published in 2017, and was an instant mountaineering classic, winning the esteemed Boardman-Tasker award.

A few months ago, I was fortunate to have a long conversation with Simon. We talked at length about the climbs up Huntington and Denali, the importance of his relationship with Jack, and what it meant for him to write “The Bond”.

Links

The Bond

Evan Phillips

Patreon

Sponsors

Alaska Rock Gym

The Hoarding Marmot

The post The Bond: Simon McCartney appeared first on The Firn Line.

On today’s episode of the firn line, we’ll get to know author, biologist and wilderness adventurer, Caroline Van Hemert.

Caroline has an impressive life resume: She’s a mother of two boys, holds a Ph.D in wildlife biology (as well as an m.a. In creative writing), and, she just published her first book titled, The Sun Is A Compass.  The book, which recently released to critical acclaim, chronicles she and her husband’s 4,000 mile, human-powered expedition from the pacific northwest rainforest, all the way to the Arctic Coast of Alaska.

I recently got a chance to talk with Caroline about this journey; about the literal, ups and downs, the life-lessons she learned along the way, as well as her process of writing about it.

Written, produced with original music by Evan Phillips

Links

The Sun Is A Compass

Caroline Van Hemert

Evan Phillips

Support The Firn Line on Patreon

Sponsors

Alaska Rock Gym

The Hoarding Marmot

The post A Conversation With Caroline Van Hemert appeared first on The Firn Line.

In April, 2019, alpinists Alan Rousseau and Jackson Marvell flew into the Ruth Gorge, intent on repeating “Blood From The Stone”, arguably one of the most difficult routes in the Alaska Range. But when the duo found poor conditions on the face, they re-directed their efforts, eventually succeeding on a new route between “Blood From The Stone” and “The Wine Bottle”.

The pair were harassed by a group of ravenous ravens, and endured a pummeling at their second bivy. But the suffering was balanced out by incredible climbing, which followed a series of vertical, razor cut, ice-tubes splitting the granite walls. On the third day, the team topped out on Mount Dickey, establishing an instant Alaska Range classic in the process.

Music

Evan Phillips

Links

Patreon

Alan Rousseau

Jackson Marvell

The post Ruth Gorge Grinder appeared first on The Firn Line.

With love to the families, friends and community surrounding Jess Roskelley, David Lama and Hansjörg Auer

The post The Mountains In My Life appeared first on The Firn Line.

AK Mountain Women is an all-female group that loves human powered expeditions in Alaska. The goal of the group is to cultivate a strong community of local women dedicated to challenging and educating themselves and others about glacial mountaineering and big remote mountains.

Music

Evan Phillips

Links

AK Mountain Women
Support The Firn Line
Evan Phillips

Sponsors

Alaska Rock Gym
The Hoarding Marmot

The post Alaska Mountain Women appeared first on The Firn Line.

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know professional rock climber, Kevin Jorgeson.

Over a long and ever-evolving career, Jorgeson has immersed himself in the multi-dimensional craft of rock climbing. As a youth, he honed his mental and physical skills, while progressing to the top tiers of competition climbing. Later, he tested himself on classic and technical and highball bouldering problems, from Fontainebleau to The Buttermilks. And more recently, he teamed up with Tommy Caldwell to complete a visionary free climb of The Dawn Wall – which was documented in a powerful and award-winning film.

I recently got a chance to sit down with Kevin, and talk about the importance of climbing in his life. But we also went below the surface, and talked about his motives, how his experience as a competition climber helped him succeed on the Dawn Wall, and the simple power of optimism. 

Music

Evan Phillips

Links

Kevin Jorgeson
Evan Phillips
Patreon

Sponsors

Alaska Rock Gym
Moose’s Tooth Pub & Pizzeria
The Hoarding Marmot
Behind The Sun Therapeutics

The post The Life & Climbs Of Kevin Jorgeson appeared first on The Firn Line.

In the last installment of The Firn Line in 2018, we’ll get to know climber, educator and activist, Len Necefer.

Len holds a Ph.D in Engineering and Public Policy, and is founder of Natives Outdoors, an outdoor products company whose products serve to support indigenous people.

In our conversation, we discuss Len’s roots and identity as a Navajo, experiencing racism in college, and his love for climbing and the outdoors (among other things).

Music

Evan Phillips

Links

Natives Outdoors
Evan Phillips
Patreon

Sponsors

Alaska Rock Gym
Moose’s Tooth Pub & Pizzeria
The Hoarding Marmot
Behind The Sun Therapeutics

The post A Conversation With Len Necefer appeared first on The Firn Line.

Growing up in the suburbs of northern Virginia, Chris Kalman was exposed to academia and team sports from a young age.  But by the time he reached high school, he discovered rock climbing, and was instantly hooked.  Always a deep thinker, the solitary process of combining fitness with problem solving appealed to him.  

But it wasn’t until Kalman moved out west after college, to work trail crew at Rocky Mountain National Park, that a new world of adventure and self-discovery emerged.

Since that time, Kalman has forged an adventurous, almost Kerouac-style path thru life. This quest has taken him from the technical granite test pieces of Index, WA, to the sweeping big walls of Cochamo in southern Chile.  But Chris’s search isn’t just about climbing. Rather, it’s a pursuit of self-examination, meaningful relationships with others, and a journey toward a deeper understanding of life.

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Music

Evan Phillips

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Links

Chris Kalman
Evan Phillips
Patreon

Sponsors

Alaska Rock Gym
Moose’s Tooth Pub & Pizzeria
The Hoarding Marmot
Behind The Sun Therapeutics

The post Wandering Writer: Chris Kalman appeared first on The Firn Line.

If you’re a climber, who consumes climbing related media like writing, video and podcasts – well, chances are, you’ve heard of Kathy Karlo.

Kathy is the creative force behind For The Love Of Climbing, an entertaining and insightful blog that combines honest, to the point writing about life on and off the walls, mixed with a good dose of self-deprecating humor.

I had heard of Kathy’s blog probably sometime in 2017. Although I perused thru some of her stories and photos, I have to admit, I never really took the time to sit down and actually delve into her work. But when I heard she was starting a new podcast, I eagerly awaited her first episode. Let’s just say, I was not let down.

For me, listening to Kathy’s podcast for the first time was an emotional gut punch that had me laughing one minute, crying the next and at the end of it all – feeling astonished at the level of creativity and production quality. A true lesson in the power of audio.

That’s why I was stoked to connect with Kathy a few months ago when she came thru Alaska on assignment with her job with the No Man’s Land Film Festival. We got to sit down for an engaging conversation about the ups and downs of life on the road, how she first started writing a blog, and how that eventually led to her starting a podcast.

Music

• Lonely Mountain / Evan Phillips / Silhouettes (2015)
• Augusta / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2018)
• Going To The Gunks / Evan Phillips /  Unreleased (2018)
• Space Song / Evan & Molly /  Evan & Molly (2012)
• Baby Come Home / Easton Stagger Phillips / Overseas (2014)
• She Was Gone /Easton Stagger Phillips / One For The Ditch (2009)
• Falling Down / Evan Phillips /  Silhouettes (2015)
• Close To Me / Evan Phillips / Cabin Vibes (2018)

Links

For The Love Of Climbing
Evan Phillips
Patreon

Sponsors

Alaska Rock Gym
Moose’s Tooth Pub & Pizzeria
The Hoarding Marmot
Behind The Sun Therapeutics

The post Open Book: Kathy Karlo appeared first on The Firn Line.

When I think back to my formative time as a young Alaskan climber, I’m often filled with memories and nostalgia that are overwhelming.  The wonder I felt when I first roped up to cross a boundless icefield, littered with crevasses, and dotted with sabre-like nunataks. My first uneasy solo climb up a 2,000 foot ice face in the western Chugach.  Seeing my life flash before my eyes when a river crossing went bad, sending me thru a turbulent cauldron of boulders and snags, only to walk away unscathed.  And the first time I felt the cold finality of death, when my 19 year old friend was buried under 15 feet of snow in Hatcher Pass.

Like many young alpinists, my early experiences in and out of the mountains were defined by a succession of monumental highs tempered with desperate lows.  Maybe that’s why Jonathan Waterman’s book, In The Shadow Of Denali – made such an indelible mark on me. The collection of short stories, which is a a mountaineering classic, followed Waterman’s years as an alpinist and mountaineering ranger on Denali in the 1970’s and 80’.  As a neophyte Alaskan climber, just out of high school – it affected me deeply.

Although I was fascinated with the climbing stories Waterman penned, I was equally entranced by the characters he described.  Tales of legendary figures like Mugs Stump and Ray Genet kept me turning the pages at a frantic pace. But it was the stories of the people living their lives in the shadow of the mountain, that hit me the hardest.  The descriptions of the hard drinking Herb Atwater, and the ill-fated journey of Gretta Berglund – painted a brutally honest picture of a darker side of Alaska.

Needless to say, the book left a lasting impression on me, and I can honestly say In The Shadow Of Denali is the most influential climbing-related book I’ve ever read.

That’s why I was excited to get a chance to interview Jon Waterman this last week.  We talked about everything – from his bitter 1982 winter ascent of The Cassin Ridge, to a 2,000 mile paddle trip across the northwest passage, as well as his new book ‘Chasing Denali’.  

Music

• Lonely Mountain / Evan Phillips / Silhouettes (2015)
• Augusta / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2018)
• Fbx 1975 / Evan Phillips /  Unreleased (2017)
• Learning To Climb /Evan Phillips /  Unreleased (2017)
• Augusta / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2018)
• Holding On / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2018)
• Silhouettes / Evan Phillips /  Silhouettes (2015)
• {“type”:”block”,”srcIndex”:1,”srcClientId”:”fcca7cdd-2aab-4b41-b0a5-9b3ba5627be2″,”srcRootClientId”:””}Hard Times / Evan Phillips / Cabin Vibes (2018)

Links

Jon Waterman (Website)
Chasing Denali (2018)
In The Shadow Of Denali (1993)
High Alaska (1988)
Surviving Denali (1983)
Evan Phillips
Patreon

Sponsors

Alaska Rock Gym
Moose’s Tooth Pub & Pizzeria
The Hoarding Marmot
Behind The Sun Therapeutics

The post Full Circle: Jon Waterman appeared first on The Firn Line.

The Canadian Rockies are home to some of the most iconic alpine peaks in North America.  Mountains like Alberta, Columbia, Edith Cavell and North Twin (to name a few) are synonymous with classic rockies alpine climbing: variable rock quality ranging from total choss, to flint hard quartzite – hanging glaciers and double cornices, veins of pristine alpine and water ice – and the classic sandbag grade of 5.9 A2.  

But if there’s one mountain that stands out from the rest (Literally) – it’s Mount Robson.  Topping out at nearly 13,000’ in height, and with huge relief on all sides, Robson is truly a sight to behold.  It’s massive south face rises nearly 10,000’ from the Yellowhead Hwy – luring tourists, hikers and climbers for a closer look.

But it’s the northern side of Robson that speaks the language of the true alpinist.  In 1913, mountain guide Conrad Kain led a group of clients to the summit after navigating the crevasse-laden Robson Glacier, and chopping steps up the northeast face and on the the summit.  This ultra-classic line, aptly named the Kain Face – was in some ways ahead of it’s time – and is still a serious route.

The ante was upped in 1963 when Pat Callis and Dan Davis ascended the intimidating apron of 60 to 70 degree blue ice and steep snow, known as the north face.

But it wasn’t until 1978, that the biggest face of all – The Emperor Face – was finally climbed by Mugs Stump and Jamie Logan.  The duo spent four days on the route – a line that more or less takes the central rib that splits the 8,000’ face – and with that, established one of the most committing Grade VI lines in the rockies.

Another line on the face was climbed in 1981, by the legendary Dave Cheesmond and Tony Dick.  

And finally in 2002, after multiple attempts over many years – Barry Blanchard, Phillipe Pellet and Eric Dumerac climbed “Infinite Patience” – a classic line following couloirs, ice runnels and interesting mixed pitches up the right side of the Emperor Face.

Although Infinite Patience has now been climbed multiple times (and even soloed by the late Marc Andre LeClerc), it is still one of the most serious lines in the Canadian Rockies – and like other classic rockies routes – an ascent is largely based on finding the face in perfect conditions.  

That’s why I was excited to hear about the line getting repeated again in September of this year by the Canadian / Dutch team of Jas Fauteux and Maarten Von Haren.

I recently got a chance to talk with Jas about his experience on Robson – what it felt like to find that face in perfect conditions – and what it means to have climbed such an iconic line on the emperor of the rockies.

Music

• Augusta / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2018)
• Trails / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2018)
• Corn Flakes / Andrew Tholberg /  Unreleased (2016)
• Lucillia / Easton Stagger Phillips / Resolution Road (2014)

Links

Mount Robson Emperor Face 1st Ascent – AAJ 1978
Evan Phillips
Patreon

Sponsors

Alaska Rock Gym
Moose’s Tooth Pub & Pizzeria
The Hoarding Marmot
Behind The Sun Therapeutics

The post Mount Robson’s Emperor Face appeared first on The Firn Line.

Narrative

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know exploratory wingsuit jumper, Pryce Brown.  

Growing up in the coastal town of Cordova, Alaska – Pryce was exposed to the vast beauty of Alaska from a young age.  Whether it was fishing, aviation, or later in his teens, backcountry skiing – Pryce was always drawn to the more adventurous side of life.  

But it wasn’t until his college years, in the midst of a tedious engineering degree at the the University of Alaska Fairbanks, that Pryce found Speed flying – an extreme winter sport that involves a combination of paragliding and skiing – that would forever alter the course of his life.

Inspired by this new form of creative expression in the mountains, Pryce, along with a core group of friends, would begin tapping new opportunities in Alaska – and with that, open new realms of what was possible.

I recently sat down with Pryce to talk about his early experiences speed flying in Thompson Pass, a life changing experience base jumping off a bridge in Idaho, as well as his recent bar-setting wingsuit jumps in the mountains of Alaska.  

Music

• Lonely Mountain / Evan Phillips / Silhouettes (2015)
• Hard Times / Evan Phillips / Cabin Vibes (2018)
• Sky Runner / Evan Phillips /  Unreleased (2018)
• Yukon Flats / Evan Phillips /Unreleased (2018)
• The Prey / Evan Phillips /Unreleased (2018)
• Holding On / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2018)
• Digging Deep / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2018)

Links

Alaska Wingsuit Project
Evan Phillips
Patreon

Sponsors

Alaska Rock Gym
Moose’s Tooth Pub & Pizzeria
The Hoarding Marmot
Behind The Sun Therapeutics

The post Learning To Fly: Pryce Brown appeared first on The Firn Line.

Narrative

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know UK-based alpinist, Malcolm Bass.  Over the course of a 30 year alpine career, Malcolm has pushed the limits of exploration of the mind, and the mountains.

From early caving expeditions in his university years, across unclimbed walls of rock and ice in the fabled Alaska Range, to a string of monumental ascents in the Himalaya, Malcolm epitomizes the character and spirit of a true alpinist.

I recently got a chance to talk with Malcolm about his life in the mountains, the friendships he’s forged along the way, as well as the other components in his life he finds meaningful.

Music

• Lonely Mountain / Evan Phillips / Silhouettes (2015)
• Isis / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• The Prey / Evan Phillips /  Unreleased (2018)
• Air Below / Evan Phillips /Unreleased (2018)
• Astro Magnet / Evan Phillips /Unreleased (2018)
• The Search / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)

Links

Evan Phillips
Patreon

Sponsors

Alaska Rock Gym
Moose’s Tooth Pub & Pizzeria
The Hoarding Marmot
Behind The Sun Therapeutics

The post The Quest: Malcolm Bass appeared first on The Firn Line.

Narrative

If you’ve ever spent time flying over, or travelling through the pacific northwest, you’ve most-likely been taken by the monolithic glacier-capped volcanoes that dot the horizon line.  Giants like Mount Rainier, Hood and Adams hold court over some of the most beautiful terrain in north america – and in doing so – form an inspiring backdrop for hikers, climbers and even artists – like Nikki Frumkin.

From an early age, Nikki always had an outdoorsy and creative side, blending a love for animals and playing in the woods, with a deep rooted passion for drawing, sketching and painting.  But it wasn’t until Nikki finished college and headed out west, that her love for art and creativity, would merge with her passion for mountains and the wilderness.

Since that time, Nikki has immersed herself in her craft – forging a lifestyle that revolves around creating art in beautiful places – most notably – the North Cascades of the pacific northwest.

I recently got a chance to sit down with Nikki, to talk about her passion for adventuring in the mountains, her creative business ‘Drawn To High Places’, and the triumphs and challenges she faces making a living as a full-time artist.

Music

• The Fox / Evan Phillips / Silhouettes (2015)
• Learning To Climb / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• I Come Alive / Evan Phillips /  Cabin Vibes Volume One (2018)
• Silhouettes /Evan Phillips / Silhouettes (2015)
• Old Dirt Road / Evan Phillips /  Cabin Vibes Volume One (2018)
• Goodbye Blues / Evan Phillips /  Lonely Mountain (2017)

Links

Drawn To High Places
Evan Phillips
Support The Firn Line
Jeremy Collins
Rachel Pohl
Semi-Rad

Sponsors

Alaska Rock Gym
Moose’s Tooth Pub & Pizzeria
The Hoarding Marmot
Behind The Sun Therapeutics

The post Shades Of The North Cascades: Nikki Frumkin appeared first on The Firn Line.

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know legendary backcountry skier, Noah Howell.

In an epic career spanning over 20 years, Howell has established himself as one of North America’s most prolific and enduring backcountry masters.  From early life-changing experiences in the Alps, thru a decade-long run of creativity at the helm of the infamous Powderwhore Productions, to a span of big mountain descents in Alaska, culminating in a recent ski decent of Mount Hunter’s west ridge and Ramen Couloir, Howell continues to push the limits of what’s possible in the mountains.

I recently got a chance to sit down with Howell, for an engaging conversation about his life in and out of the mountains.  We started our conversation by talking about his roots in Utah, and how that led to his first experiences skiing in the Wasatch, and eventually to the bigger mountains of Alaska.

Music

• Space Walker / Evan Phillips / Silhouettes (2015)
• Augusta / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2018)
• Elmore James / Tim Easton /  Paco & The Melodic Polaroids (2018)
• Tired & Hungery / Tim Easton / Not Cool (2013)
• Not Cool / Tim Easton / Not Cool (2013)
• Never Punch The Clock Again /Tim Easton /  Paco & The Melodic Polaroids (2018)
• Knock Out Roses (For Levon) / Tim Easton / Not Cool (2013)

Links

Noah Howell
Tim Easton
Evan Phillips
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Sponsors

Alaska Rock Gym
Moose’s Tooth Pub & Pizzeria
The Hoarding Marmot
Behind The Sun Therapeutics

The post Backcountry Master: Noah Howell appeared first on The Firn Line.

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know world-renowned and visionary alpinist, David Lama.

The son of Nepalese and Austrian parents, David was was born with an affinity for movement over natural terrain, and a deep reverence for the high places. As a youngster, Lama excelled at indoor and sport climbing, dominating the competition circuit, and honing his rock climbing skills to the highest standards.
But eventually, a natural progression to the mountains occurred – which has culminated in a multitude of ground-breaking ascents in Patagonia, The Himalaya and beyond.

I recently got a chance to sit down with David in Anchorage, Alaska – to have a candid conversation about his life as a climber, and the vision he follows as an alpinist. We talked about everything, from his early days as a competition climber, to a life-changing experience on the southeast ridge of Cerro Torre, to his meaningful relationship with fellow climber and friend Conrad Anker, to the limitless ideas and projects that lie ahead.

We started our conversation by talking about David’s natural inclination to climb as a youngster, and how a fateful meeting with famous Austrian mountaineer, Peter Habeler, helped steer the trajectory of David’s life – from the confines of rock gyms, to the limitless arena of the mountains.

Music

• Lonely Mountain / Evan Phillips / Silhouettes (2015)
• I Come Alive / Evan Phillips / Cabin Vibes • Volume One (2018)
• Hard Times / Evan Phillips /Cabin Vibes • Volume One (2018)

Links

David Lama
Evan Phillips
Support The Firn Line

Sponsors

Alaska Rock Gym
Moose’s Tooth Pub & Pizzeria
The Hoarding Marmot
Behind The Sun Therapeutics

The post A Conversation With David Lama appeared first on The Firn Line.

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know legendary Alaskan outdoorswoman, and wilderness educator, Nancy Pfeiffer. I first heard nancy’s name probably when I was around 17 years old. At the time, I was what you might call a neophyte alpinist, and Nancy was a well-known skier, mountaineer and wilderness instructor in the community, which automatically made her a hero of sorts in my mind. Although we rarely crossed paths in the ensuing years, she was always on my radar, and someone I admired and respected for her skills and expertise in the mountains.

That’s why I was intrigued this last year when I saw that Nancy had written a book. And it wasn’t any ordinary book. Released in May of 2018, Riding Into The Heart of Patagonia chronicles nearly 20 years of Nancy’s travels through the different regions of Patagonia – on horseback.

Although the stories are full of adventure, close calls, and sometimes clever bursts of self-deprecating humor, the core of the story goes deeper than that: to the moments of self-doubt she faced, to the relationships she shared with her partners, and most importantly, her emerging understanding, and connection with the people of Patagonia.

Last month I got to sit down with Nancy to talk about her experiences in Patagonia, what it meant for her to write the book, as well as some of her more recent adventures in Alaska. We started our conversation by talking about Nancy’s early experiences teaching NOLS courses in Patagonia, and how an experience on one of those courses, reshaped the trajectory of her life.

Music

• Tackle / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• Learning To Climb / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• The Talkeetnas / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• The Cave / Evan Phillips /Unreleased (2017)
• Close To Me / Evan Phillips / Cabin Vibes • Volume One (2018)

Links

Nancy Pfeiffer
Evan Phillips
Support The Firn Line

Sponsors

Alaska Rock Gym
Moose’s Tooth Pub & Pizzeria
The Hoarding Marmot
Behind The Sun Therapeutics

The post Finding Patagonia: Nancy Pfeiffer appeared first on The Firn Line.

Every mountaineer has a favorite mountain range, a place that for whatever reason centers them, gives them a piece of mind, creates a sense of belonging.  For some, it might be a well-known place like the Sierras: an area of impeccably clean granite towers, speckled with pristine, aqua-colored alpine lakes and a constant supply of near perfect weather.  For others, it might be the Swiss Alps, a range steeped in mountain history and culture, with a list of bold and ultra-classic lines too innumerable to count. And for others, like Alaskan climber and mountain adventurer Eric Parsons, it’s the more obscure areas, like the western ramparts of Alaska’s Chugach Mountains, that define their lives.

Growing up in New York, Eric spent summers camping and taking cross-country road trips with his family to places like the Canadian Rockies, and the desert southwest.  These early experiences created an adventurous mindset that would follow him to college at Colorado State University, and ultimately, the vast expanses of Alaska.

Since that time, Eric has created a unique lifestyle for himself that centers around his family and close-knit group of friends, his bike-packing gear company Revelate Designs, and of course, a constant effusion of adventures in the western Chugach Mountains.

Last summer, I was fortunate to sit down with Eric to talk about his love for the mountains, the passion and creative drive that led him to start Revelate Designs, as well as the meaningful partnerships and friendships he’s developed through climbing and other outdoor pursuits.

Music

• Augusta / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2018)
• Something To Believe In / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2018)
• I Come Alive / Evan Phillips / Camp Vibes, Vol. 01 (2018)
• Guess I Was Just Young / Evan Phillips / Silhouettes (2015)
• Begin / Easton Stagger Phillips / Resolution Road (2014)
• Ode To Easton / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• Traveller / Evan Phillips / Lonely Mountain (2017)

Links

Eric Parsons
Revelate Designs
Little A Triathalon
Bellicose Peak
Baleful Peak
Evan Phillips
Support The Firn Line

Sponsors

Alaska Rock Gym
Moose’s Tooth Pub & Pizzeria
The Hoarding Marmot
Behind The Sun Therapeutics

The post The Revelator: Eric Parsons appeared first on The Firn Line.

Growing up in the west African country of Nigeria, Adam Campbell was drawn to movement and athletics from a young age, whether it was team sports like soccer, or more solo endeavors like surfing.  But it wasn’t until he moved to Canada as a teen, that he began to dabble in the sport that would ultimately shape the course of his life: running.

In his twenties, Adam narrowed his focus to multi-sport races like triathlons, and he even earned the title of Canadian Duathlon National Champion in 2004.  But a few years later, the repetitive nature of the training started to lose its appeal, and Adam began a shift to the more creative form of mountain running.  

Over the course of the next decade, Adam became a major force in the mountain and endurance running world, often-times placing in the top three in a variety of punishing and knee-jarring races around the world.  But in August of 2016, all of that came crashing down, when he took a bad fall in the Selkirks in British Columbia, breaking his pelvis, as well as multiple vertebrae in his spine. Although he was rescued quickly, and would eventually recover from his injury, his life was changed forever.

I recently got an opportunity to have a conversation with Adam about his life in the mountains, how the accident in 2016 changed his life, as well as the lessons learned and the gratitude he feels today.  

Music

• Augusta / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2018)
• The Fox / Evan Phillips / Silhouettes (2015)
• Space Walker / Evan Phillips / Silhouettes (2015)
• Afterschool Special / Evan Phillips / Silhouettes (2015)
• Old Dirt Road / Evan Phillips / Cabin Vibes, Vol. 01 (2018)
• The Search / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)

Links

Adam Campbell
Evan Phillips
Support The Firn Line

Sponsors

Alaska Rock Gym
Moose’s Tooth Pub & Pizzeria
The Hoarding Marmot
Behind The Sun Therapeutics

The post New Terrain: Adam Campbell appeared first on The Firn Line.

Alaska is a vast and wild place; a constant fluctuation of movement and changing landscapes.  Rugged mountains are carved by massive, chaotic glaciers – and lush, brown-green valleys are cut by powerful silt-laden rivers.  During the spring and short summer seasons, the landscapes come alive; the lowlands teeming with wildlife and colorful and fragrant boreal forests.  Then in the winter, a darkness falls, blanketing the ground with snow and ice, and I quiet the you can sometimes feel, more than hear.

Some people shy away from these natural environments, choosing a more urban existence full of creature comforts and predictability.  While other folks, people like artist, skier and wilderness guide Klara Maisch, embrace it, choosing to let the wildness of Alaska shape every aspect of who they are, and how they live.

To immerse yourself into Klara’s artwork is to transport yourself into the heart and soul of Alaska’s wilderness.  Flowing lines are meandering rivers.  Circles and shapes are glacial erratics.  Wistful strokes on canvas are citadels in the distance.  And introspective shades and colors, are the crisp interior sky.

Music

• Augusta / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2018)
• Her Glorious Morning /Evan Phillips / Goodnight My Dearest Stranger (2012)
• Learning To Climb / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• Afterschool Special / Evan Phillips / Silhouettes (2015)
• Old Dirt Road / Evan Phillips / Cabin Vibes, Vol. 01 (2018)
• The Search / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)

Links

Klara Maisch
Evan Phillips
Support The Firn Line

Sponsors

Alaska Rock Gym
Moose’s Tooth Pub & Pizzeria
The Hoarding Marmot
Behind The Sun Therapeutics

The post Seeking The Sublime: Klara Maisch appeared first on The Firn Line.

Narrative

Over the course of an distinguished 30+ year career, Conrad Anker’s adventures have taken him from the bigwalls of Yosemite, to the icy flanks of The Alaska Range, The Himalaya and Antarctica.  Although Anker is probably best-known for discovering Mallory’s remains on the north side of Everest in 1999 (and his stunning climb on Meru), it’s his earlier adventures in Alaska that I’ve always been fascinated with. That’s why I was excited to sit down with Conrad this past February, to talk about his formative experiences in the mountains, the friends and partners that meant the most to him, as well as his efforts in environmental activism.  

Music

• I Come Alive / Evan Phillips / Cabin Vibes, Vol. 01 (2018)
• Lucillia / Easton Stagger Phillips / Resolution Road (2014)
• Lonely Mountain / Evan Phillips / Silhouettes (2015)
• The Talkeetnas / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• I Come Alive / Evan Phillips / Cabin Vibes, Vol. 01 (2018)

Links

Conrad Anker
Mugs Stump
Seth Shaw
Gurney Peak  – SE Face
Middle Triple Peak – East Buttress
Mount Hunter – Rattle & Hum
Khumbu Climbing Center
Support The Firn Line
Evan Phillips

Sponsors

Alaska Rock Gym
Moose’s Tooth Pub & Pizzaria
The Hoarding Marmot

The post Alaska Vibes: Conrad Anker appeared first on The Firn Line.

Narrative

Sometime in the days after March 5 2018, Ryan Johnson and his partner, the brilliant Marc Andre Leclerc, lost their lives after completing the stunning first ascent of the north face of the Main Tower in The Mendenhall’s, just outside of Juneau, Alaska.

The route, which was a dream line of Ryan’s, epitomized what he looked for in alpinism: Elements of the unknown, physical and mental challenges, as well as an aesthetic, direct and pure line.  One can only imagine what it must have felt like for Ryan to be on that summit after what had surely been one his best experiences in the mountains.

Although I had never met Ryan, we’d corresponded in the months before his passing, and had planned on sitting down for an interview this April.  So in a way of honoring Ryan, I decided to talk with some of his best friends and partners, to talk about their memories, experiences, and the ups and downs they shared in and out of the mountains.  

Music

• Hard Times  / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2018)
• Silhouettes / Evan Phillips / Silhouettes (2015)
• The Search / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• Something To Believe In / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2018)
• Pick Yourself Up / Evan Phillips / Lonely Mountain (2017)
• Guess I Was Just Young / Evan Phillips / Silhouettes (2015)
• Her Glorious Morning  / Evan Phillips / Goodnight My Dearest Stranger (2012)
• Hard Times  / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2018)

Links

GoFundMe

Sponsors

Alaska Rock Gym
Moose’s Tooth Pub & Pizzaria
The Hoarding Marmot

The post The Spaces Between: Ryan Johnson appeared first on The Firn Line.

Narrative

On this special bonus episode of The Firn Line, I sit down with Alaska-based mountain and backcountry ski guide Joe Stock. I first met Joe on the Kahiltna Glacier back in 2002, and was immediately taken with his enthusiasm and infectious positive attitude. That’s why it was nice to sit down and catch up a few months ago. Our conversation covered topics including Joe’s early experiences guiding, his backcountry ski guidebook “The Alaska Factor“, as well as his thoughts on the importance of creativity in life. Enjoy!

Music

• Augusta 2018  / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2018)
• Northeast Face / Unreleased (2018)
• Space Walker / Evan Phillips / Silhouettes (2015)

Sponsors

Alaska Rock Gym
Moose’s Tooth Pub & Pizzaria
The Hoarding Marmot

Links

Evan Phillips
Joe Stock
The Alaska Factor
Support The Firn Line

The post A Conversation with Joe Stock appeared first on The Firn Line.

Narrative

In March 1999 I found myself wedged in a sandy chimney, fully-gripped and trembling, five hundred feet off the deck.

Me and my partner Scott were attempting to climb The Thunderbird Wall, a grade VI backcountry behemoth in Zion National Park’s Kolab Canyon.  The face, which is among the highest sandstone walls in the world, had only been climbed twice since Jeff Lowe and Cactus Bryan made the first attempt in 1971.  Scott had been to Zion once before.  I had never stood in a pair of aiders.  In hindsight, I can only blame the ignorance of youth for leading me to believe I had any business being on The Thunderbird Wall.

Music

• Always Came Back To You  / Easton Stagger Phillips / Resolution Road (2014)
• Stay /Easton Stagger Phillips / Resolution Road (2014)
• Lost Again / Evan Phillips / Goodnight My Dearest Stranger (2012)
• Thru The Clouds / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• Lonely Mountain / Evan Phillips / Silhouettes (2015)
• Stormy / Easton Stagger Phillips / One For The Ditch (2009)
• Denali Dreams /Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• Infinite Spur / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• Waterman / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• Fairbanks 1975 / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• Red Bandana / Easton Stagger Phillips / One For The Ditch (2009)
• The Fox / Evan Phillips /Silhouettes (2015)

Links

Support The Firn Line
Evan Phillips
The Alaska Rock Gym
The Hoarding Marmot

The post Desert Delusions: Friendship and Failure on The Thunderbird Wall appeared first on The Firn Line.

Narrative

Growing up in the Yupik village of St. Mary’s, Danielle Varney was raised on a steady diet of winter camping, and long summer days spent working on the family’s Yukon River fish camp.

These core experiences instilled a work ethic that first carried over into college athletics, and ultimately, mountaineering.

Since that time, Danielle has climbed and explored big Alaskan mountains including Denali, Mt. Drum, as well as a harrowing life-and-death experience on the icy crown of The Chugach , Mount Marcus Baker.

I recently sat down with Danielle to talk about her deep Alaskan roots, as well as the important lessons she’s learned from Alaska’s mountains.

Music

• Space Song / Evan & Molly / Evan & Molly (2012)
• Augusta / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• Something To Believe In / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2018)
• Hard Times / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2018)
• Close To Me / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2018)
• Lucillia / Easton Stagger Phillips / Resolution Road (2014)

Links

Support The Firn Line
Evan Phillips
The Alaska Rock Gym
The Hoarding Marmot

The post Episode 22 // Alaska Roots: Danielle Varney appeared first on The Firn Line.

Narrative

On December 2, 2017, I had the great privilege to sit down in front of a live audience at the Alaska Rock Gym, and talk with renowned Alaskan alpinist and explorer, Roman Dial.  We had a candid and highly-entertaining conversation that spanned topics including his early years in Fairbanks, his ambitious climbs in The Hayes Range in the 80’s, as well as his forays into hell-biking, tree climbing, and packrafting in the 90’s and beyond.  

In some ways, Roman is a larger than life character, with a list of jaw-dropping outdoor achievements to his credit.  But as you’ll soon hear, it’s the characters, friends and partners that have helped shape Roman’s life, and ultimately meant the most to him.  

Music

• Space Song / Evan & Molly / Evan & Molly (2012)
• Augusta / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• Lonely Mountain / Evan Phillips / Silhouettes (2015)
• Space Walker / Evan Phillips / Silhouettes (2015)

Links

Support The Firn Line
Evan Phillips
The Alaska Rock Gym
The Roaming Dials
Shwak Magazine

The post Episode 21 // The Firn Line “Live”: Roman Dial appeared first on The Firn Line.

Narrative

On episode 20, I look back on 2017 and season one of The Firn Line, and give thanks to all the folks who have been with me along the way. Also, we hear a sneak peek of the first ever Firn Line “Live” with Roman Dial, which happened earlier this month at the Alaska Rock Gym. Finally, I give my rundown on why podcasting and climbing are essentially the same thing.

Music

• Space Song / Evan & Molly / Evan & Molly (2012)
• Augusta / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• The Fox / Evan Phillips / Silhouettes (2015)
• Old Dirt Road / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• North East Face / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)

Links

Patreon
Evan Phillips
The Alaska Rock Gym

The post Episode 20 // Short Ropes: Podcasting Is Like Climbing appeared first on The Firn Line.

Narrative

Many years ago, I saw Jack Tackle give a slideshow in Anchorage.  I was in my early to mid-twenties at the time, and mountain climbing was the only thing that mattered. That evening, I listened intently as Jack described icefaces, corniced ridges, and run-out pitches that had long captured my imagination.

But I was also impressed by the life-wisdom Jack imparted.  His laid back style, coupled with a philosophy about the importance of vision, commitment and trust, resonated in a way that made sense to me.  I remember walking away that night feeling inspired, and ready to apply some of Jack’s hard-earned wisdom into my own climbs.  

But it’s funny how life works.  Shortly after the slideshow, I sustained an injury climbing, that effectively ended my career, and irrevocably changed my life forever.  Although I went on to make a new path in art and music, I can say without a doubt, that my life was never the same without climbing.

Jack too, experienced life-altering injuries that could have ended his climbing career.  In 2000, while guiding in South America, he contracted Guillain-Barre, a rare and sometimes fatal disorder in which your body’s immune system attacks the nerves.  Although Jack eventually regained his strength, the disease created lasting effects, some of which still linger today.

There was also the accident on Mt. Augusta in the Wrangell-Saint Elias, where jack was struck by a falling rock.  The impact broke his neck, leaving him paralyzed on the face, and stranded fifty miles from the nearest road.  The ensuing high-stakes rescue would become the stuff of legends in the mountaineering world, but for Jack, it was an opportunity to move forward in life, with a new perspective.

Fifteen years later, and despite some limitations from his injuries, Jack is still climbing at a high level around the world.  Over the years, I’ve watched his career from afar, and often wondered how his brush with Guillain-Barre and the accident on Augusta affected him.  

That’s why I felt fortunate to sit down and have a face-to-face conversation with Jack this last fall.  We talked at length about his climbing career in Alaska, the Himalaya and elsewhere.  But we also talked about his life outside the mountains, and how he’s managed to navigate thru challenging injuries and situations.  Turns out, if it weren’t for his friends, family and partnerships in climbing, he wouldn’t be where he is today.

Music

• Space Song / Evan & Molly / Evan & Molly (2012)
• Augusta / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• Isis / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• The Cave / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• Till You Came Along / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2014)
• Lexington / Evan Phillips / Goodnight My Dearest Stranger  (2012)
• Stormy / Easton Stagger Phillips / One For The Ditch (2008)
• Traveler / Evan Phillips / Lonely Mountain (2017)

Links

Patreon
Evan Phillips
The Alaska Rock Gym

The post Episode 19 // Commitment, Vision,Trust: Jack Tackle (Part 2) appeared first on The Firn Line.

Narrative

On episode 18, we’ll delve into the first of a two-part series with the venerable North American alpinist, Jack Tackle.  With his unmistakable baritone and classic unassuming style, Jack is the epitome of a true Alaskan “hardman”.  His gutsy first ascents up climbs like the Isis Face on Denali, the Diamond Arete on Mount Hunter, and the Elevator Shaft on Mount Johnson, have cemented his place in the storied history of Alaskan alpinism.

Recently, I got to sit down with Jack at his Castle Valley yurt, to talk about his forty-year career as an alpinist, and the lessons he’s learned along the way.  We discussed everything from his early forays in the woods, to his most intense experiences in the mountains and in life.  It was an enlightening and meaningful conversation that I felt privileged to be a part of.

Music

• Space Song / Evan & Molly / Evan & Molly (2012)
• Augusta / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• Isis / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• Northeast Face / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• Ode To Easton / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• The Fox / Evan Phillips / Silhouettes (2015)
• The Cave / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• Isis / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)

Links

Patreon
Evan Phillips
The Alaska Rock Gym
Denali – Isis Face (Alpinist Magazine)
Hunter – Diamond Arete (1985 AAJ)
Mount. Barrill – Cobra Pillar (Super Topo)
Mt. Johnson – Elevator Shaft (1996 AAJ)
Mt. Kennedy – North Face (1997 AAJ)

The post Episode 18 // Commitment, Vision, Trust: Jack Tackle (Part 1) appeared first on The Firn Line.

Narrative

It’s no accident that Brad Meiklejohn makes his home in a beautiful alpine valley outside of Anchorage, Alaska.  An avid pack rafter, climber and skier, Brad has spent much of his life exploring Alaska and other remote corners of the world.  But beyond his accomplishments in the outdoors, the mountains have always been a sacred place of reflection and self discovery, attributes that can certainly be traced to his deep family roots.

As a kid, Brad followed his grandmother and cousins on hiking and climbing adventures in The White Mountains of New Hampshire.  It was during these formative years that Brad would lay the foundation for his future outdoor ambitions.  But more than anything, his family instilled in him a deep loyalty to each other, as well as a sense of duty to protect the natural world they loved.  

This way of life was a natural progression for Brad, first as an avid climber, skier, and avalanche forecaster in Utah, then as Alaska Director of The Conservation Fund, a position he’s now held for over 20 years.  

But as much fulfillment as his career and personal adventures have brought, there’s been equal amounts of tragedy and sadness.  Over the course of Brad’s outdoor career, he’s lost over 30 friends in mountain-related deaths, a toll that has affected him profoundly.  But perhaps none of these deaths have affected him more than loss of Kyle Dempster, a young American alpinist with whom he shared a deep family and spiritual connection.

A few months ago, I drove out to Brad’s mountain-side home in the Chugach Mountains, hoping to gain insight into his wilderness adventures, his philosophies about conservation, as well as his meaningful relationship with Kyle.  

Music

• Space Song / Evan & Molly / Evan & Molly (2012)
• Augusta / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• By Your Side / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• Avalanche / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• Falling Down / Evan Phillips / Silhouettes (2015)
• Guess I Was Just Young / Evan Phillips / Silhouettes (2015)
• Letter That You Sent / Evan Phillips / Lonely Mountain (2017)
•By Your Side / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)

Links

Patreon
American Packrafting Association
The Conservation Fund – Alaska
Kyle Dempster
Evan Phillips
The Alaska Rock Gym

The post Episode 17 // A Higher Calling: Brad Meiklejohn appeared first on The Firn Line.

Narrative

In June 2017, Aaron Kurland and Sam Novey planned to attempt the formidable and rarely-climbed Father and Sons wall on Denali, but when they found the face to be out of condition, they quickly turned their attention elsewhere.

The duo settled on the ultra-classic Cassin Ridge, a 9,000 foot spine of ice, snow and granite that snakes it’s way directly up the center of the south face. With a big storm scheduled to hit within the week, the duo planned a 3 day alpine-style ascent. Little did they know, they would soon be at the mercy of Denali’s weather, totally exposed, and fully committed on the Cassin.

Music

• Space Song / Evan & Molly / Evan & Molly (2012)
• Augusta / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• Sexy Violence / Andy Tholberg / Unreleased (2017)
• Quad Laser / Andy Tholberg / Unreleased (2017)
• Sci Fly / Andy Tholberg / Unreleased (2017)
• Slow Motion Seq / Andy Tholberg / Unreleased(2017)
• Save My Soul / Andy Tholberg / Unreleased (2017)
• Can’t Bleed Thru A Microphone / Andy Tholberg / Unreleased (2017)
• Clad Frog / Andy Tholberg / Unreleased (2017)
• Posted Up / Andy Tholberg / Unreleased (2017)

The post Episode 16 // Short Ropes: Committed On The Cassin appeared first on The Firn Line.

Links

Patreon
Evan Phillips
Vern Tejas

Narrative

When I was a kid growing up in Alaska, Vern Tejas was one of my heroes. Back in February of 1988, Tejas made the bold first solo winter ascent of Denali, and in doing so, captured the imagination of all Alaskans, including me.

The Denali climb changed Vern’s life. He wrote books, gave lectures and eventually became one of the most sought after high altitude guides in the world. But Alaska never remained far from Vern’s heart, and he returned each year to guide on The High One. To this date, Tejas has summited the mountain a staggering 57 times. A world record.

I recently had the privilege to sit down with Vern, and talk about his life in and out of the mountains. From his first adventurous forays of hitchhiking around the country, to his 1st winter ascent of the Lowe-Kennedy route on Mount Hunter, Vern is a larger-than-life figure and a great storyteller.

Music

• Space Song / Evan & Molly / Evan & Molly (2012)
• Augusta / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• The Cave / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• Denali Dreams / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• Lost In The Night / Evan Phillips / Silhouettes (2015)
• After School Special / Evan Phillips / Silhouettes (2015)
• The Cave / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• Unnamed Jam / Evan Phillips & Vern Tejas / Unreleased (2017)

The post Episode 15 // Denali Dreams: Vern Tejas appeared first on The Firn Line.

Links

Patreon
Evan Phillips
The Sharp End Podcast

Narrative

A few weeks ago I got to sit down with outdoor educator and host of the excellent ‘Sharp End’ podcast, Ashley Saupe. We talked about her upbringing in Alaska, her experiences teaching as an Outward Bound instructor as well as discussing what it takes to produce a monthly podcast about accidents in North American climbing.

Music

• Space Song // Evan & Molly // ‘Evan & Molly’ (2012)
• Augusta // Evan Phillips // unreleased (2017)
• Sharp End // Evan Phillips // unreleased (2017)
• Traveller // Evan Phillips (written by Leeroy Stagger) // ‘Lonely Mountain’ (2017)

The post Episode 14 // Short Ropes: Ashley Saupe appeared first on The Firn Line.

On today’s episode, we’ll get to know Alaskan alpinist Sam Johnson.  Growing up in the foothills of the Chugach Mountains, Sam was exposed to the outdoors and mountain environments at a young age.  But it wasn’t until his teenage years that he discovered a newfound focus and direction thru climbing.

Since that time, Johnson has climbed extensively Alaska, Canada, Europe and even the far reaches of the Karakoram.  His quiet first ascents in Alaska’s Hayes Range, including a bold solo on the South East Face of Mount Hayes in 2013, highlight the spirit of adventure and self discovery that Sam seeks in climbing, and in life.

I recently sat down with Sam to talk about his trajectory as an alpinist, as well as the things that inspire him on a day to day basis.

Music

• Space Song / Evan & Molly / Evan & Molly (2012)
• Augusta / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• Instrumental #1 / Evan Phillips / Songs From Lake Irene (2007)
• Hwy 395 / Easton Stagger Phillips / One For The Ditch (2008)
• Hell Of A Life / Easton Stagger Phillips / One For The Ditch (2008)
• Red Bandana / Easton Stagger Phillips / One For The Ditch (2008)
• Weight Of Changing Everything / Easton Stagger Phillips / Overseas (2014)
• Block Me Out / Easton Stagger Phillips / Overseas (2014)

Links

Patreon
Evan Phillips
Sam Johnson

The post Episode 13 // Mindful Mountaineer: Sam Johnson appeared first on The Firn Line.

On this episode of Short Ropes, we revisit my conversation with legendary Alaskan alpinist Carl Tobin (See episode 11).  Tobin’s climbs in Alaska’s remote Hayes Range raised the bar for hard alpine climbing in North America in the late 70’s and early 80’s. His climb up the Valdez test piece “Wowie Zowie” is an honest grade 6 ice climb, and was way ahead of it’s time when he made the first ascent in 1981 with the late Andy Embick. In this episode, Carl and I talk about the early days in Fairbanks, his relationship with the enigmatic alpinist Johnny Waterman as well as surviving a deadly avalanche in the Hayes Range in 1984.

Music

Space Song / Evan & Molly / Evan & Molly (2012)
Augusta / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
Fairbanks 75′ / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
Waterman / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
Avalanche / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
Ode To Easton / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)

Links

Patreon
Evan Phillips

The post Episode 12 // Short Ropes: Tobin’s Tales appeared first on The Firn Line.

On today’s episode, we’ll get to know legendary Alaskan alpinist Carl Tobin. With an alpine career that has spanned over 40 years, Tobin continues to be a force in Alaska’s climbing community to this day.

In the late 70’s and early 80’s, Tobin and a small group of committed partners, pioneered a number of first ascents in Alaska’s Hayes Range including the east face of Hess Mountain, the northeast face of peak 10,910′ and the historic east ridge of Mount Deborah. These climbs set the standard for hard alpine climbing in Alaska, and in doing so, inspired generations of climbers that would follow.

This last spring, I sat down with Carl at his home in Anchorage, to talk about his early days in Fairbanks, and the whirlwind years in the mountains that followed. Carl seemed wistful that day, as he recounted his years spent climbing in Alaska, the Canadian Rockies and the Himalaya. But it wasn’t just the climbing that had him thinking. It was also the important relationships he’d forged along the way.

Music

Space Song / Evan & Molly / Evan & Molly (2012)
Augusta / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
Ode To Easton / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)

Links

Patreon
Evan Phillips

The post Episode 11 // Mountain Memories: Carl Tobin appeared first on The Firn Line.

I first came up with the idea to do The Firn Line in September 2016 – really not that long ago when you think about it.  I think the truth is that i’d always wanted to somehow combine my love for the mountains with my creative pursuits.  I just wasn’t sure how to do it.  I guess you could say I had a light bulb moment when I realized that I could combine my passion for storytelling, the mountains, and music all into one creative outlet.  Nine months and ten episodes in, I guess you could say I haven’t looked back.

My goal from the get-go was to create a podcast that I would have wanted to listen to back when climbing was the only thing that mattered to me.  I’ve thought back to all the endless nights sitting around campfires with friends, all the soggy drives to go ice climbing in Valdez, and all the storm days I whittled away in tents, counting the squares in the ripstop fabric.  Back then, I would have loved to have had a podcast like the firn line to listen to.

So as I look back today at the beginning stages of this podcast, or rather, this community, I wanted to share “mixtape” from The Firn Line episodes.  Some of these moments are light-hearted, while others are pretty heavy.  But like every Firn Line episode you hear, all the clips are genuine, in the moment, and real.

Music

• Space Song / Evan & Molly / Evan & Molly (2012)
• Augusta / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• The Fox / Evan Phillips / Silhouettes (2015)
• Silhouettes (w/ Courtney Marie Andrews) / Evan Phillips / Silhouettes (2015)
• Lonely Mountain (w/ Courtney Marie Andrews) / Evan Phillips / Silhouettes (2015)
• Unnamed / A. Tholberg / Unreleased (2016)
• Kenny Blackwell / Grand Couloir / Unreleased (2017)
• The Talkeetnas / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• Falling Down / Evan Phillips / Silhouettes (2015)
• The Search / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• Block Me Out / Easton Stagger Phillips / Overseas (2008)

Links

Patreon
Evan Phillips
Courtney Marie Andrews
Easton Stagger Phillips

The post Episode 10 // Short Ropes: Mixed Master Vol. 1 appeared first on The Firn Line.

From a young age, Graham Zimmerman was inspired by the rugged peaks of the New Zealand alps, and later, the cascades of Washington and the pacific northwest.

During high school, Graham developed a keen interest in geology and it was then that he would experience his first involvement with mountaineering.  But it wasn’t until he returned to New Zealand for University that climbing became the driving force in his life.

Since that time, Zimmerman has honed his craft, and over the last decade he’s pioneered a myriad of exploratory routes in Alaska, Patagonia, and most recently, The Karakoram.  But for Graham, it’s not just about climbing.  Rather, it’s about living an all-encompassing lifestyle that combines exploration, creativity and challenging alpinism.  Getting to the top is one thing, but how you get there is everything.

Music

• Space Song / Evan & Molly / Evan & Molly (2012)
• Augusta / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• The Search / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• Lost Again / Evan Phillips / Goodnight My Dearest Stranger (2012)
• Looper / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• Red Light / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2014)
• Stay / Easton Stagger Phillips / Resolution Road (2014)
•The Search / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)

Links

Patreon
Evan Phillips
Graham Zimmerman

The post Episode 09 // The Search: Graham Zimmerman appeared first on The Firn Line.

Last month I sat down to chat with Alaskan climber and mountain explorer Katie Strong. Katie is an ambitious adventurer, as well as a driven environmental lawyer, which means her career often-times takes center stage, leaving her with limited amounts of free time. But that doesn’t keep her from spending time in the mountains. Rather, it just means she has to pack big trips into shorter blocks. Enter the “micro-expedition”.

Music

• Space Song / Evan & Molly / Evan & Molly (2012)
• Augusta / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• Stereo / Evan Phillips / Goodnight My Dearest Stranger (2012)
• The Talkeetnas / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• The Gauntlet / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• Pick Yourself Up / Evan Phillips / Songs From Lake Irene (2007)

Links

Patreon
Evan Phillips
Katie Strong

The post Episode 08 // Short Ropes: Katie’s Micro-Expeditions appeared first on The Firn Line.

Growing up in the village of McGrath, Luc Mehl was inspired at a young age by the simplicity of rural living, and the vast Alaskan wilderness surrounding him.

As a teenager, Luc moved to Anchorage to attend high school, and it was during this period that he would first experience rock climbing and other outdoor sports.  But at that junction, his passion for academics and learning would take center stage.

After earning his undergraduate degree in geology, Luc attended UC Santa Barbara where he would earn his first master’s degree.  But as much as Luc enjoyed school, he’d always struggled to find balance between the rigid structure of academia, and the more dynamic lifestyle he’d known as a kid. Ultimately, he returned to Alaska in 2003, deeply depressed, and unsure which direction to take.

It was during this period, a time Luc refers to as his “dark year”, that he would literally stumble his way into the mountains, only to come out on the other side with a restored sense of purpose, and a new way of living.

Music

• Space Song / Evan & Molly / Evan & Molly (2012)
• Augusta / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• Valley Below / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2013)
• Driftin’ / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2014)
• Traversing Rappel / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• Guess I Was Just Young / Evan Phillips / Silhouettes (2015)
• Logan McCarthy / Evan Phillips / Unresolved (2017)
• Spacewalker / Evan Phillips / Silhouettes (2017)

Links

Patreon
Evan Phillips
Luc Mehl

The post Episode 07 // The Power Of Being Human: Luc Mehl appeared first on The Firn Line.

Nestled in the heart of the Alaska Range, lies what many believe to be one of the most beautiful mountains in the world: Mount Huntington.  Rising on all sides to form a symmetrical pyramid of rock, snow and ice, Huntington has captured the imagination of bold and dedicated alpinists for decades.

When the French Ridge was first climbed in 1964, the mountaineering world took notice.  Then just a year later, when a young David Roberts and crew climbed the stunning west face, the mountaineering world was shocked. Both of these climbs raised the standard of what could be done in Alaska’s mountains, as well as setting a precedent for what future alpinists could expect on Huntington: remoteness, sustained, hard climbing, total commitment.

By 2017, most of Huntington’s major features had been climbed.  But one line, perhaps the most committing of them all, had yet to be ascended: The complete south ridge.  Rising nearly 7,000 feet, the south ridge follows a serpentine spine of four jagged sub-peaks, each connected by delicate gendarmes and stacked cornices.  Of the south ridge, David Roberts wrote, “It was not so much a ridge as five separate, serrated peaks, each increasingly higher.”  Although a few teams had ascended the upper south ridge of Huntington over the years, few parties had considered a go at the complete south ridge.  That is until this year.

Over a stretch of perfect weather in April 2017, American alpinists Jess Roskelley and Clint Helander made the first ascent of the complete south ridge in a single 5-day push.  The climb was everything the duo had anticipated and more, pushing- the limits of their endurance, and forcing them to commit psychologically in a way neither of them had experienced in the past.

A few days later after they got down from the climb, I sat down with Jess and Clint in Anchorage, to recount this once in a lifetime adventure.  The interview picks up on the second day of their trip, as they are crossing the east fork of the Tokositna Glacier, and starting the initial climbing up the first peak of the south ridge of Huntington.

Music

• Space Song / Evan & Molly / Evan & Molly (2012)
• Augusta / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• Letter That You Sent / Evan Phillips / Lonely Mountain (2017)
• Trippy Instrumental / Andy Tholberg / Unreleased (2017)
• Lucillia / Easton Stagger Phillips / Resolution Road (2014)

Links

Patreon
Evan Phillips
Clint Helander
Jess Roskelley
Andy Tholberg

The post Episode 06 // Short Ropes: The Risk Of Commitment appeared first on The Firn Line.

Mark Westman is one of Alaska’s most prolific alpinists. On Denali alone, Westman has climbed a myriad of monumental routes including the Cassin Ridge, Isis Face, Denali Diamond and Slovak Direct.  He’s also climbed a number of important routes on other Alaska Range peaks including Mount Hunter, Mount Silverthrone and Mount Huntington.

On episode 05, Westman traces his roots in the outdoors, the important partnerships in his life and the challenges he’s faced in and out of the mountains.

Music

•  Space Song / Evan & Molly / Evan & Molly (2012)
•  Augusta / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
•  I Know You Hate Me (But You Love Me Too) / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2013)
•  Infinite Spur / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
•  Instrumental / Andy Tholberg / Unreleased (2017)
•  Looper / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
•  Celeno Peak / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
•  Winter 83′ / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)

•  Rely On Me / Evan Phillips / Lonely Mountain (2017)

Links

Patreon
Evan Phillips
Mark Westman

The post Episode 05 // Alaska Ranger: Mark Westman appeared first on The Firn Line.

In February, 2016 Dusty Eroh, Andrew Burr, Scott Adamson and Todd Tumolo rode, pushed and postholed their fatbikes up the Nizina River to the mythical frozen waterfalls of the Chitistone valley. Equal parts climbing and comedy, the trip was an authentic and memorable Alaskan adventure.

In Episode 04, Dusty tells the story first-hand, reflects on his time with Scott and discusses how he got his nickname, “Dirty D.”

Music

• Space Song / Evan & Molly / Evan & Molly (2012)
• Augusta / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• Ambien / Andy Tholberg / Unreleased (2017)
• Beta Fish / Andy Tholberg / Unreleased (2017)
• Silky Smooth / Andy Tholberg / Unreleased (2017)
• Corn Flakes / Andy Tholberg / Unreleased (2017)
• Fleeting Fleets / Andy Tholberg / Unreleased (2017)
• Pumper / Andy Tholberg / Unreleased (2017)

Links

Patreon
Evan Phillips
Scott Adamson
Kyle Dempster
Andrew Burr Photography

The post Episode 04 // Short Ropes: Chitistone Chuckles appeared first on The Firn Line.

Finding truth in the Revelation Mountains

Clint Helander left home at 18 years old, hoping to escape a tense relationship with his mother, and to start finding his own way thru life.  When he came to Alaska a year later to attend college, a chance encounter with a new group of friends would expose Clint to the outdoors, and eventually lead him to the mythical Revelation Mountains.  Little did he know that along the way, he’d learn more about the importance of relationships with his friends, and ultimately his mother, than he ever could have imagined.

Music

• Space Song / Evan & Molly / Evan & Molly (2012)
• Augusta / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• Stars / Giorgioff – Phillips / Unreleased (2014)
• Tackle / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• Her Glorious Morning / Evan Phillips / Goodnight My Dearest Stranger (2012)
• Thru The Clouds / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• Goodbye Blues / Evan Phillips /Goodnight My Dearest Stranger (2012)
• Lonely Mountain / Evan Phillips / Silhouettes (2015)

Links

Patreon
Evan Phillips
Clint Helander

The post Episode 03 // Life Revelations: Clint Helander appeared first on The Firn Line.

In the first installment of “Short Ropes”, we re-visit my discussion with Alaskan alpinist Charlie Sassara (See episode 01).  This is a candid 20-minute raw clip of our chat where Charlie reflects on a 1984 attempt on the west pillar of Makalu, as well as his transition to Alaskan alpine climbing.

Music

• Space Song / Evan & Molly / Evan & Molly (2012)
• The Fox / Evan Phillips / Silhouettes (2015)
• Falling Down / Evan Phillips / Silhouettes (2015)

Links

Patreon
Evan Phillips

The post Short Ropes: Makalu Mantras appeared first on The Firn Line.

Growing up in the wilds of Alaska, Charlie Sassara always yearned for adventure. But it wasn’t until he found the “expression” of climbing that his life’s path changed forever. From early harrowing ascents on Mount Deborah and Denali in winter, to visionary climbs and bold rescues in the Wrangell-St. Elias, Charlie is a compelling character, and one of Alaska’s most enduring alpinists.

Music

• Space Song / Evan & Molly / Evan & Molly (2012)
• Augusta / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• Learning To Climb / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• Afterschool Special / Evan Phillips / Silhouettes (2015)
• Silhouettes / Evan Phillips / Silhouettes (2015)
• Learning To Climb / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• Lucillia / Evan Phillips / Lonely Mountain (2017)
• The Fox / Evan Phillips / Silhouettes (2015)

Links

Patreon
Evan Phillips

The post The Expression Of Climbing: Charlie Sassara appeared first on The Firn Line.