The mountain ranges of North America are beautiful and diverse.  From the prominent glacier cones that dominate the skylines of the Pacific Northwest, to the rugged granite plutons of Yosemite Valley, and the sawtooth razor points of the Tetons, the mountains of North America are a veritable playground for mountaineers.

But for climbers and alpinists looking to put their physical, mental and psychological fortitude to the test- perhaps no range is better suited, than the Canadian Rockies.

Although the Rockies offer opportunities for mountaineers of all abilities, it’s the giant peaks, with their menacing and fearsome north walls, that have cemented the Candian Rockies as one of the world’s most storied alpine arenas. 

And today, I’m chatting with one of the rockies most accomplished, and enduring alpinists of his generation, Jon Walsh.

Jon’s alpine resume is uniquely impressive – with dozens and dozens of first ascents ranging from Patagonia, The Karakoram and The Bugaboos.  But it’s his climbs in the Canadian Rockies, particularly his routes on the legendary peaks like Alberta, North Twin, and Robson, that stand out the most (at least to me).  

I recently got a chance to speak with Jon about his career in the Rockies, and in some ways, this conversation was special.  In the next hour, you’ll hear deep wisdom, and unmatched experience.  For aspiring alpinists, and folks who are interested specifically in the Candian Rockies – you’ll want to pay extra attention.  It’s not so often you get to hear first hand accounts, from true masters of the craft.

This conversation is focused primarily on Jon’s experiences on the North walls of Mount Alberta, Robson, and North Twin – but like a lot of conversations on The Firn Line, we started by talking about Jon’s early years, and how he got into climbing in the first place.

Links:

• Mount Albert Brazeau-Walsh (Alpinist)
• Mount Robson Kruk-Walsh (Alpinist)
• Mount Robson Infinite Patience (Alpinist)
• North Twin Kruk-Wharton (Alpinist)
• The Bold And Cold (Book)
• Patreon
• Evan Phillips Music

Sponsors:

• Alaska Rock Gym
• The Hoarding Marmot

The post Deep Knowledge: Jon Walsh appeared first on The Firn Line.

It’s easier to stay alive if you know what’s out there.  Whether it’s understanding local climate patterns, snow conditions, or predators that inhabit certain areas, having even a basic understanding of what lies ahead, can be the difference between having a great day out, and not coming home at all.

And that’s the philosophy behind Emma Walker’s Dead Reckoning, which comes out June 1st on Falcon Guides.  

Dead Reckoning is an honest, gritty, and sometimes gripping collections of close-calls and accidents in the outdoors.  

Emma’s compelling narrative nonfiction covers stories and topics ranging from hiking and mountaineering, to sea kayaking and backcountry skiing, in a style that is accessible to readers of all experience levels.  

At the end of each chapter, she distills lessons learned for staying safe in the outdoors––all with a relatable, sometimes self-deprecating (and occasionally vulnerable) twist.

I recently caught up with Emma to talk about the book, why she wrote it and who it’s for, as well as digging into the creative process of being a writer and creative person.  

All that today, on this episode of The Firn Line.

Links

• Emma Walker (Website)
• Dead Reckoning (Pre-Order)
• Patreon (The Firn Line)
• Evan Phillips Music

Sponsors

• Alaska Rock Gym
• The Hoarding Marmot

The post Emma Walker’s Dead Reckoning appeared first on The Firn Line.

On today’s episode of The Firn LIne, we’ll get to know climber, alpinist and author, Kelly Cordes.  I first heard of Kelly back in the mid-90’s when I started seeing his name speckled across the pages of publications like Climbing and Rock and Ice.  Over the years, I watched from afar as he made gutsy first ascents in the Alaska Range and beyond – always pushing himself to a higher standard, that only he knew the limit of.  Later, I admired his work as senior editor of the American Alpine Journal, followed by his published books, ‘The Tower’, and the New York Times best seller, ‘The Push’, which he co-wrote with Tommy Caldwell.

But I didn’t truly get to know Kelly until we chatted, and like a lot of alpinists, Kelly has a storied past, riddled with high highs, low lows, anchored by a fascination with exploration and adventure.  So here’s our conversation.  I hope you enjoy it.

Links:
Kelly Cordes
The Tower (Book)
The Push (Book)
Patreon
Evan Phillips Music

Sponsors:
Alaska Rock Gym
The Hoarding Marmot

The post A Conversation With Kelly Cordes appeared first on The Firn Line.

In this episode of The Firn Line, I check in with author and climber, Chris Kalman.  I first met Chris after reading his excellent book, As Above So Below and since then we’ve stayed in touch, connected through climbing and creativity. 

So I was excited when Chris announced a Kickstarter to help finish up his new novella, Dammed if you don’t.  

Dammed If You Don’t tells the story of a deeply-conflicted photographer who tries to save Lahuenco_—_a remote valley in Patagonian Chile—by showing the world how beautiful it is. But in showing the world how beautiful it is, he inadvertently puts Lahuenco in peril—including a rare and mysterious salamander whose sudden appearance there forces the scientific community to rethink its understanding of evolutionary biology, and possibly human history itself.  

Chris and I recently caught up to talk about the his creative process, some philosophical discussions about the role of conservation in the outdoor community, as well as some fun talk – just about climbing.  So I hope you enjoy our conversation.

Links:
Dammed If You Don’t
Patreon
Evan Phillips Music

Sponsors:
The Hoarding Marmot
Alaska Rock Gym

The post Chris Kalman’s ‘Dammed If You Don’t’ appeared first on The Firn Line.

A Halloween special presenting three spooky stories of close calls, mountain ghosts, and unexplained sounds in the night.

The Snow Coffin

Evan tells the story of a 1996 winter attempt, and subsequent narrow escape from a remote Alaskan peak.

The Ghost of Aconcagua

Mountain endurance athlete Sunny Stroeer tells her tale of completing the first female solo speed-circumnaviagion and ascent of Aconcagua, only to have a run-in with the fabled “Ghost of Aconcagua” on her way out.

Visitors In The Night

Montana climber Justin Willis tells the gripping tale of unexplained sounds in the night during a weekend climbing excursion to Comet Mountain.

Links:

• Searching For Adolfo – Rock & Ice
• Visitors In The Night – Mountain Project
• Evan Phillips Music
• Pod Peak

Sponsors:

• The Hoarding Marmot
• Alaska Rock Gym
• Patreon (Listener Support)

The post Tales From The Firn Line appeared first on The Firn Line.

In this special episode of The Firn Line, August Franzen, a young Alaskan alpinist, shares his story of climbing through life-changing love, and heart-wrenching grief.

Links

• The Devil’s Thumb (AAJ)
• Mt. Burkett (Alpinist)
• Patreon
• Evan Phillips Music

Sponsors

• Alaska Rock Gym
• The Hoarding Marmot
• Declination Roasting

The post See You Soon appeared first on The Firn Line.

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know climber, skier, high-school teacher and coach, Eddie Taylor.

Eddie grew up in different parts of the country.  As a youth, he spent time in New Mexico, where he first learned how to ski.  It was these formative experiences, alongside trips to National Parks, that instilled a deep reverence and love for the outdoors.

During his high school years, Eddie moved out to Minnesota with his mom and sister, where he excelled in sports – playing basketball, soccer and track and field.  But he also had an aptitude for academics, and by the time he graduated, he decided to move out west to Boulder, Colorado, to attend Colorado State University.

Eddie focused on his education, majoring in both Mathematics and Chemistry.  But the allure of athletics pulled at him, and with the encouragement of some friends, he walked on to the track and field team.  It didn’t take long for Eddie to impress the coaches with his all-around abilities, and before long, he’d earned a scholarship.

By the time Eddie graduated from college, he had a lot to be proud of.  He’d accomplished a lot.  But like a lot of people in their twenties, Eddie ended up at various crossroads, pulling him in various directions.  Although his love for athletics was still there, some of the pull and excitement had waned, and various injuries forced him to dial things back.  But sometimes adversity brings opportunity.

Boulder, Colorado is a mecca for North American climbing, with classic arenas like Eldorado Canyon, Rifle, and Longs Peak just a stone’s throw away.  It didn’t take long for Eddie to get into the business, and before long, he was hooked.

Links

• Patreon
• Evan Phillips Music

Sponsors

• Alaska Rock Gym
• The Hoarding Marmot
• Declination Roasting

The post The All-Arounder: Eddie Taylor appeared first on The Firn Line.

Today’s episode is a story about adventure.  It’s a story about getting scared.   It’s a story of friendship and love.  It’s a story about self-discovery and learning from your mistakes.  But the learning in this story doesn’t take place in a formal classroom, or an online forum.  Rather, It takes place in the mountains – in a small sub-range of striking peaks and glaciers, just outside of Anchorage, Alaska. 

It was in these peaks, known as the Western Chugach, where Brendon Lee’s life changed – in more ways than one.  And like a lot of folks who end up in the north, Brendan’s journey to Alaska started very far away – on an Air Force base, in Texas…

Links

• AK Mountain
• Alaska Mountaineering Club (Scree)
• Patreon
• Evan Phillips Music

Sponsors

• Alaska Rock Gym
• The Hoarding Marmot
• Declination Roasting

The post Challenge Of The Western Chugach appeared first on The Firn Line.

I first met Tom Sardy in the summer of 1998.  My recollection is that I was camped under the granite towers of Archangel Valley in Hatcher Pass, when my friend Zach arrived, with Tom in tow, for a day of rock climbing.

Zach and I had met just a few months prior, when we’d spent three weeks guiding clients up the west buttress of Denali.  We’d become instant friends on the trip, and I was glad to be climbing out in the real world with Zach, and his friend Tom.

It must have been July, as the days were long, and the sun was powerful.  I have memories of hiking up a mossy, Tolkien-esque valley, to a prominent rock band that was split by 2 striking cracks where we climbed all afternoon.  What I remember about that day is that we laughed a lot.  And even though Tom seemed a bit shy and introverted, it was clear he was comfortable with Zach – and me as well.  Like a lot of days back then, it was a memorable moment in the mountains – being young and healthy, and just simply climbing for the pure joy of it – with friends.

I never climbed with Tom again, but I did stay in touch with Zach – and it was a few years later that I remember Zach mentioning that Tom was struggling with mental illness. 

By that time, my own life had changed dramatically – In 2002, I sustained an injury that effectively ended my climbing career. I drifted away from that part of my life.  But I still stayed in touch with Zach, and as the years went by we’d run into each other from time to time, and always be glad to catch up.  Zach would also fill me in about Tom, who by that time was living on the streets, lost in the paranoid confusion of schizophrenia.

As sad as it was, I didn’t think much of it until maybe around 2010.  One day, I stopped to grab a coffee near the REI in Anchorage when I noticed a figure moving toward me.  Something about the person looked familiar.  He was disheveled, his clothes soiled and torn, with dirty, matted hair poking out of a beanie, and a bushy red beard.  Without another thought, I approached him and said, “hey Tom, it’s me Evan”.  

Tom hesitated, but then seemed to understand who I was.  As we spoke, he had an almost euphoric expression, that seemed to look straight through me, into a world that only he could understand.  I asked him if he was ok, where he was staying, if he was hungry.  He acknowledged that he was living in the woods, but seemed nonchalant, like it was no big deal.  I offered him the $20 bill in my pocket, which he eagerly accepted.  When we said goodbye a few minutes later, I looked back as he quickly beelined for the Subway sandwich shop across the street.  

The encounter left me shaken.  Tom was a shell of the vibrant 18 year old I’d climbed with years before.  I could only imagine what it was like to live in his mind.

Over the next few years I saw Tom frequently.  Usually around the parking lot of REI, sometimes on the coastal trail, and other times – random places in Anchorage.  Tom and I spoke a few more times, but as the months went on, he started avoiding me when we made eye contact.  And then, as the months turned into years, I stopped seeing Tom all together.  Once again, life moved forward, and time went on – and then in May 2019, out of the blue, I heard a story on the radio.

It was an interview with Marin Sardy – Tom’s sister, who had recently published a memoir, The Edge Of Every Day, which detailed the story of Tom’s struggle with schizophrenia.  I listened intently to the story, taking in the information methodically, so I could try and piece together what had happened to him.  And then at the end of the segment, I understood at last, when the reporter stated plainly that Tom had died in 2014.

A few months ago I was fortunate to speak with Tom’s sister Marin, about her brother Tom, and what it meant for her to write The Edge of Every Day.  Although I learned a lot more about Tom in our conversation, I also learned that Marin’s family, like my own family – like a lot of families, has a long and complicated history with mental illness.

Links

• Marin Sardy
• The Edge Of Everyday: Sketches Of Schizophrenia
• Alaska Public Media (May 2019)
• Patreon
• Evan Phillips Music

Sponsors

• Alaska Rock Gym
• Hoarding Marmot
• Declination Roasting

The post Fragments Of My Brother appeared first on The Firn Line.

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know northwest based artist and mountain guide – Craig Muderlak.  

I first got to know Craig through his amazing illustrations in Chris Kalman’s excellent book, As Above, So Below.  His work is emotional and moody – but also uplifting and joyful at the same time.  If you’ve spent time in the mountains – or live for pure moments in nature with friends or family – his work will certainly speak to you.

When Covid 19 hit back in the spring, and lockdowns started going into effect – it hit us all.  I mean, it’s still hitting us all.  I know for myself, I went through a period of immense creativity – making music and producing multiple podcast episodes.  I felt like I needed to contribute something to the community.  But part of this push to create was inspired by seeing what others were doing – and Craig was one of the people who I drew inspiration from.  His series of pieces called ‘How To Be Alone’ are odes to memories in the mountains.  From mount Robson, To Half Dome, To Mount Rainier, To the valley of 10 peaks – looking at Craig’s work, you can almost touch the rock, hear the water trickle through the glaciers, smell the wildflowers waft through the valleys, and feel the presence of undeniable beauty in your soul.

Last month I sat down with Craig for an enjoyable conversation about his process as an artist, his life as a mountain guide, husband and newly-minted father – and the challenges of making a living as an artist – especially in the time of Covid 19.  We started out the conversation talking about Craig’s childhood, and what some of his early inspirations were.

Links

• Craig Muderlak
• Patreon
• Evan Phillips Music

Sponsors

• Alaska Rock Gym
• Hoarding Marmot
• Declination Roasting

The post A Conversation With Craig Muderlak appeared first on The Firn Line.

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know legendary North American alpinist, Steve Swenson.  

Over the course of a climbing career that has spanned a remarkable 50 years, Steve has left a lasting imprint on the world stage of alpinism, from his roots in the Pacific Northwest, all the way to the 7 and 8,000 meter giants of the Himalaya, and the Pakistani Karakoram.

His early climbs in the Canadian Rockies, which included an astounding list of classic north faces in the 1970’s, set the stage for other first ascents in Alaska and beyond.

But it was Steve’s love for the greater ranges, specifically the Karakoram, that became the biggest alpine pull in his life.  Starting with a number of attempts in the early 80’s on Gasherbrum IV, Steve continually refined his style, and partnerships, to make ascents of giants like K2, Everest, and most-recently, one of the highest unclimbed mountains in the world – Link Sar.

I recently got a chance to speak with Steve about his enduring alpine career.  We talked about his early climbs as a youngster growing up in the Pacific Northwest, as well as his new book, Karakoram: Climbing Through The Kashmir Conflict, which was released in 2017 by Mountaineers Books.  

Links

• Steve Swenson (Book)
• Link Sar (Rock & Ice)
• K2 North Ridge (AAJ)
• Evan Phillips (Music)
• Patreon

Sponsors

• Alaska Rock Gym
• The Hoarding Marmot
• Declination Roasting

The post Persistence: Steve Swenson appeared first on The Firn Line.

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know world-renowned climber and author, Margo Talbot.

Growing up on the east coast of Canada in New Brunswick, Margo was raised in what she describes as a chaotic family environment.  It was this environment, often devoid of love and compassion, that led Margo to start dreaming of a new life. But as a teenager, a new life meant hanging out away from home, oftentimes on the streets, and eventually using drugs and alcohol.

By the time Margo had become a young adult, she was fully-immersed in a toxic world mixed with chronic depression and drug addiction.  She even ended up in jail. For a lot of people, this would have been a hopeless situation.

But when Margo was 28 years old, in the midst of a highly-abusive and toxic relationship, she discovered climbing – and for her, this was the catalyst that would change her life forever.  Climbing gave Margo a release, and power, that she’d never before experienced – and within a few years, she was able to harness this new found passion, to kick her addiction, and move forward on a path to healthy living.

Since that time, Margo has forged a life that is inspiring to say the least.  In addition to being a world-renowned ice climber, she also runs a successful landscaping business, gives motivational talks to businesses and people around the world, and recently wrote a book chronicling her life called All That Glitters: A climber’s journey through addiction and depression.  

I recently got a chance to have a candid and heartfelt conversation with Margo, and although we talked about climbing, we also talked about the important moments and relationships in her life, and the personal journey that got her to where she is today.

Cover photo: Raf Andro

Links:

• Margo Talbot (website)
• All That Glitters (Book)
• Ken Wallator
• Karen McNeil
• Warren Macdonald
• Evan Phillips
• Patreon

Sponsors:

• Alaska Rock Gym
• The Hoarding Marmot
• Declination Roasting

The post Doing The Work: Margo Talbot appeared first on The Firn Line.