alpinist Archives - The Firn Line

The Emperor Face

Evan Phillips on April 2, 2024

When Jamie Logan and Mugs Stump first ascended Mount Robson’s Emperor Face in July 1978, it was hailed as one of North America’s greatest alpine climbs. Since then, the face has continued luring some of the world’s best climbers, maintaining it’s reputation as one of North America’s most enduring alpine walls.

Written and produced by Evan Phillips

Music by Evan Phillips
Additional music curated using Artlist. Artists include: Andrew Word, T Asco, Yehezkel Raz, Marshall Usinger, Evert Z, Steven Beddall

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Dangerous Liaisons

Evan Phillips on December 30, 2022

In the summer of 1995, John Climaco and Andrew Brash were young dirtbag alpinists looking for the adventure of a lifetime. The duo certainly got that and more when they flew to Pakistan for an attempt on Chogolisa (7,665 m / 25,148 ft). Turns out, the climb was only a small part of the journey.

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Notes

Special thanks to John Climaco

Learn more about John and Andrew’s 1995 expedition to Chogolisa:

Dangerous Liaisons

Produced by Evan Phillips
Editing & Sound Design by Pod Peak

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Larger Than Life: Daryl Miller

Evan Phillips on July 5, 2022

You know that saying – “they just don’t make em’ the way they used to”. I guess you could call it a quintessential American expression. In the climbing world, It conjures up icons like Lynn Hill, Jim Bridwell, Catherine Freer, and Royal Robbins – just to name a few.

You know you have someone like that in your life. It’s someone who’s tough. They have a determination and resolve that’s made of granite. There’s something about them – maybe you can’t quite put it into words – but they just have an aura or presence around them – that’s larger than life.

When you meet these people, they leave an indelible mark on you. And that’s exactly how I felt this last spring, after spending a few days with a guy named Daryl Miller.

If you spent any time climbing on or around Denali back in the 1990’s and early 2000’s – surely you came across Daryl – or at the very least, you knew who he was. Back then, Daryl was the Chief Climbing Ranger on Denali – and even then, he was larger than life. His aura was equal parts military, mountaineer, and Marlboro Man – a steely gaze with a perpetual squint in his eyes from too much glacier sun.

But Daryl wasn’t just known for his daring mountain rescues. In February 1995, he and his partner Mark Stasik walked out of Downtown Talkeetna, and embarked on one of the wildest expeditions in Denali Park history. When the grizzled and emaciated duo returned 45 days later, they had become the first party to circumnavigate Denali National Park in winter – a rugged 350 mile journey that has never been repeated.

But Daryl’s life journey didn’t end with Denali. In 1997, he was diagnosed with Parkinson’s disease – a condition that ultimately forced him to shift gears in his career, and eventually retire from the Park Service in 2008.

These days, Daryl lives a simpler life in Anchorage with his wife Judy and their two dogs, Raven and Jago. When I came to visit Daryl for the first time in March, he led me to a back room where we would conduct the first of our three interviews. The room is adorned with relics of a life well lived: photos of climbing expeditions near and far. Military medals, black and white stills of a young Rodeo clown. And a young man, barely out of high school, in combat fatigues in Vietnam, circa 1965.

I quickly realized that I didn’t know much about Daryl. But what I did know is that he’d probably lived 9 lives. The only question was where to start.

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Cover Photo: Daryl after a 30 hour search for a patrol member above 15,000 feet on Denali, May,1994

Special Thanks to Daryl Miller

Written and produced by Evan Phillips
Edited and mixed by Pod Peak
Music by Evan Phillips and Tim Easton

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The Northwest Face of Kichatna Spire

Evan Phillips on June 23, 2022

Today we head into the Kichatna Spires – a compact subrange of monolithic granite towers located just south of Denali.

In early June, North American climbers Graham Zimmerman, Dave Allfrey and Whit Magro, headed into the Kichatna’s – their sites set on a new line up the beautiful northwest face of the ranges namesake – Kitchatna Spire.

Although many parties attempting lines in the Kichatna’s get hammered by bad weather and poor conditions, the trio was blessed by the mountain gods – which allowed them to make a first ascent in an enjoyable and safe manner.

The climb, which the team named ‘The Pace of Comfort’ – takes a steep line left of the 1979 Embick and Bridwell route, and goes at Grade VI 5.10, A3+, M6, 70° snow.

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Notes

Special thanks to Graham Zimmerman

More info about ‘The Pace Of Comfort’ on Kichatna Spire:
Explorers Web
Climbing

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Trip Report: The East Face of Golgotha

Evan Phillips on April 18, 2022

This month’s trip report takes place in one of Alaska’s most remote and mythical mountain ranges: The Revelations. First explored in the late 60’s by David Roberts and friends, The Revelations hold a mystique, and reputation, that has continued to grow over the years. The range, which is nestled between the southwest tip of The Alaska Range, and the north and western aspects of the Aleaution, Neacola and the Tordrillo Mountains, is as remote, as it is fierce. The jagged peaks, which average between 7 and 9 thousand feet in height, are an alpine climbers dream, with sweeping granite buttresses, firm gullies of neve snow, and ribbons and shafts of bulletproof ice.

But for every day of good conditions and weather, there’s at least 3 days of worse weather. And by bad I mean never ending rain and snow storms, fog and soupy cloud cover, and relentless, vicious, hurricane-force winds. If that’s not enough, just getting in and out of the range requires multiple bush plane flights, sometimes costing thousands of dollars. That is if you can even find a pilot willing to fly in there (more on that, at the end of this episode). Let’s just say that being a Revelations climber requires a different kind of commitment.

And this was certainly the case for North American alpinists Clint Helander and Andres Marin, who flew into the Revelations this March to attempt the east Face of Golgotha – an unclimbed, 4,000 foot granite face, laced with snow, and pierced by sinister shafts of ice.

The mountain, which clocks in at just under 9,000’, was first climbed in 2012 by Helander and Ben Trocki, when they attempted the east face, but ultimately opted for an easier route up the southeast face. Helander returned in 2016 with Marin, making a tricky landing directly under the face on the aptly named ‘Misfit’ Glacier. But after a day, the snow and wind came, and the duo was nearly killed when a gargantuan avalanche destroyed their camp, forcing them to quiver behind a large, glacial erratic for days until their pilot extracted them to safety.

The duo returned in 2017 – this time with a third – Leon Davis. That year, they made it multiple pitches up the route, finding a massive bivy cave. They also got a look at what appeared to be the crux pitch. An overhanging prow of rock with ice daggers hanging off the top like tentacles of an octopus. But unfortunately, a broken crampon led to an early retreat.

Again, Helander and Marin returned in 2018, but the conditions and vibe weren’t right. They decided to fly out.

Finally, in March of this year, Helander and Marin returned for a fourth trip, landing on the more spacious Revelation Glacier, where they made a basecamp. The duo then traveled over a col, and rappeled onto the Misfit Glacier, where they were able to recon the east face. This time, the route looked to be in impeccable condition, with a decent weather window to boot.

Here’s Clint and Andres’s account of the first ascent of the east face of Golgotha – a route they aptly named ‘The Shaft of The Abyss’.

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Notes

Special thanks to Clint Helander & Andres Marin

Produced by Evan Phillips
Editing & Sound Design by Pod Peak
Original Music by Evan Phillips

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Vertical Quest: Topher Donahue

Evan Phillips on March 5, 2022

It was the summer of 1996. At the time, I was 21 years old, living in a primitive cabin in the small fishing village of Ninilchik, Alaska. That summer, I’d landed a job working as a park ranger assistant for Alaska State Parks, and although I’d like to say I was doing something cool like building trails, the reality is that I was cleaning gnarly outhouses, packing up bags of garbage, and picking up fish guts off the beaches. Although I was far away from any climbing, I was often mesmerized by the Aleutian and Neacola Ranges, 50 miles across the water.

So I was excited when I received a stash of beloved issues of Climbing Magazine in the mail. As I poured through each issue, I was stopped in my tracks when I stumbled onto a story about 2 climbers who’d just attempted the North Face of Mount Neacola, the highest mountain in the Neacola Range. The climbers, Topher Donahue and Kennan Harvey, had spent 5 days attempting a route they dubbed the Medusa Face. The photos were inspiring, and terrifying to say the least: a near vertical dark wall bigger than The Nose on El Cap. Black rock laced with snow and ice, with no obvious crack systems to follow. A mixture of free, aid and ice climbing, while being pummeled by relentless wind, spindrift and bitter cold. This was wild stuff.

Although the duo didn’t reach the summit, it was an adventure that resonated with me, and captured my imagination. I never forgot about the Medusa Face on Mount Neacola.

That’s why I was intrigued 25 years later, when I heard about the trio of Ryan Driscoll, Justin Guarino, and Nick Aiello-Popeo, making the first complete ascent of the face. It was stunning to me to hear about a new generation of climbers returning to a climb that had filled me with so much intrigue and inspiration over the years. It also got me thinking about reaching out to Topher Donahue.

Luckily I did get in touch with Topher, and we recently had an engaging conversation about his life in the mountains. We talked about a lot of things, including his attempt on Neacola. But like a lot of climbers I talk with, it turns out there was a lot more to Topher’s life, than one trip to a remote Alaskan mountain in 1995.

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Notes

Special thanks to Topher Donahue // Cover Photo: Kennan Harvey

Written & Produced by Evan Phillips
Editing & Sound Design by Pod Peak
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Miranda climbing at a crag developed by Tim Bruns and Will Harris who founded Wadi Climbing, the climbing Gym in Ramallah, Palestine. This area is in Area A of the occupied Palestinian territory. Photo Credit: Julie Ellison.

A Conversation with Miranda Oakley

Evan Phillips on February 6, 2022

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know rock climber, big-wall soloist and AMGA certified rock climbing guide, Miranda Oakley.

Growing up in Maryland, Miranda learned from a young age the values of compassion, teaching, and working with others. Born to a Palestinian mother, and an American father, Miranda grew in a family that cared deeply about social justice issues, whether it was participating in peaceful anti-war rallies, or attending meetings of the Palestine Aid Society with her mother.

Later, in her teens, Miranda started rock climbing at the local gym – and it was during that time, she discovered the calling that would begin to shape her life. In college, she started a climbing club and began making her first road trips with friends. But it wasn’t until she headed west in 2006, to the big walls of Yosemite Valley, that her life’s vision truly came into focus.

Since that time, Miranda has become a force in the climbing world. With the support of her longtime sponsor, Mountain Hardware, She’s established herself as a seasoned guide with the Yosemite Mountaineering School, while simultaneously becoming one of the most prolific female trad climbers in the United States. Some of her remarkable ascents include linking Half Dome and El Cap in a day, as well as becoming the first female to rope-solo The Nose on El Cap in under 24 hours.

I recently caught up with Miranda, to talk about her remarkable life journey. Our conversation begins during Miranda’s college years – the formative time when her passion for climbing became the driving force in her life.

Learn more about Miranda Oakley

Written & Produced by Evan Phillips
Editing & Sound Design by Pod Peak
Original Music by Evan Phillips

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Trip Report: Oberon (Valdez, Alaska)

Evan Phillips on January 16, 2022

When people think of ice climbing in North America, the first places that might come to mind are Ouray, Colorado, Hyalite Canyon outside Bozeman, Montana – or the vast alpine region of the Canadian Rockies, just to name a few. But perhaps the ultimate mecca for pure frozen waterfall climbing, is in and around Valdez, Alaska. This temperate region, which encompasses the shared traditional land of the Ahtna, Athabaskan, Alutiq and Eyak cultures, averages around 300 inches of snow each year, making it a perfect environment for forming fat, blue ice routes

There’s a rich climbing history in Valdez, starting when Jeff Lowe and John Weiland made the first ascent of the ultra-classic Keystone Greensteps in 1975. Then, in the late 70’s, a couple of young hotspot climbers from Fairbanks, Carl Tobin and Roman Dial, started ticking of dozens of first ascents, raising the standard of what was being done at the time. In the 80’s, climber’s like Andy Embick, Chuck Comstock and Brian Teale, all Valdez locals, continued the tradition, establishing hundreds of classic first ascents. And the old school merged with the new, when In February 1987, Steve Garvey and Jim Sweeney climbed Sans Amis, a grade 6 snow and rock line on the Keystone Wall – ushering in modern mixed climbing techniques to the Valdez area.

Although Valdez has remained popular over the years, it’s continued to somehow stay under the radar to the mainstream climbing world. But that hasn’t stopped a new generation of Alaskans from continuing the tradition of adventure, exploration, and first ascents in the magnificent arena.

One of these ascents happened in Feb, 2021, during the annual Valdez Ice Festival, when Sam Volk, Ryan Sims, August Franzen, and Sam Johnson, headed back toward the remote Wartmanns Glacier. Assisted by snow machines, and a boot pack put in a few day before by Sims and Johnson, the 200 meter, WI 6 climb was an instant classic. Here’s Sam Volk’s trip report of that memorable outing.

This Trip Report is made possible with the gracious support of The Firn Line Patreon backers. To learn more about how you can become a Patreon subscriber, go to The Firn Line Patreon.

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Notes

Written & Produced by Evan Phillips
Editing & Sound Design by Pod Peak
Original Music by Evan Phillips

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Life Lived Wild: Rick Ridgeway

Evan Phillips on December 29, 2021

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know legendary mountaineer, outdoor adventurer, author and conservationist, Rick Ridgeway. I first learned about Rick back in the early 90’s, when I read his mountaineering classic, The Last Step, which details the 1978 first American ascent of K2. Rick was an early hero of mine, as I admired his tenacity, grit and determination in the mountains. But it turns out, the world’s high peaks we’re just one chapter in Rick’s life: a life that’s been filled with adventure, catastrophe, enduring love, and heart-wrenching loss.

A few months ago, I caught wind of Rick’s new memoir, Life Lived Wild, which came out via Patagonia Books on October 26th. The book describes the many adventures in Rick’s life – everything from a gripping stay in a vicious Panamanian jail at 24 years old, to one of his closest companions dying in his arms on a remote Chinese mountain, to traverses in remote regions of Tibet and Borneo, to the windswept and frigid summits of Antarctica. After finishing the book, I finally understood why Rolling Stone magazine once dubbed Rick, ‘the real Indiana Jones’.

This last fall, I was fortunate to catch up with Rick when we talked for almost 3 hours over the course of two separate interviews. It would be impossible to cover Rick’s whole life in such a short amount of time, so we talked mostly about his early years. At the end of it, I was left mesmerized by Rick’s stories – but more importantly, I was touched by his honesty, his humor, his grace, and his enduring wisdom.

Notes

Written & Produced by Evan Phillips
Editing & Sound Design by Pod Peak
Original Music by Evan Phillips & Tim Easton

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Deep Knowledge: Jon Walsh

Evan Phillips on March 15, 2021

The mountain ranges of North America are beautiful and diverse. From the prominent glacier cones that dominate the skylines of the Pacific Northwest, to the rugged granite plutons of Yosemite Valley, and the sawtooth razor points of the Tetons, the mountains of North America are a veritable playground for mountaineers.

But for climbers and alpinists looking to put their physical, mental and psychological fortitude to the test- perhaps no range is better suited, than the Canadian Rockies.

Although the Rockies offer opportunities for mountaineers of all abilities, it’s the giant peaks, with their menacing and fearsome north walls, that have cemented the Candian Rockies as one of the world’s most storied alpine arenas.

And today, I’m chatting with one of the rockies most accomplished, and enduring alpinists of his generation, Jon Walsh.

Jon’s alpine resume is uniquely impressive – with dozens and dozens of first ascents ranging from Patagonia, The Karakoram and The Bugaboos. But it’s his climbs in the Canadian Rockies, particularly his routes on the legendary peaks like Alberta, North Twin, and Robson, that stand out the most (at least to me).

I recently got a chance to speak with Jon about his career in the Rockies, and in some ways, this conversation was special. In the next hour, you’ll hear deep wisdom, and unmatched experience. For aspiring alpinists, and folks who are interested specifically in the Candian Rockies – you’ll want to pay extra attention. It’s not so often you get to hear first hand accounts, from true masters of the craft.

This conversation is focused primarily on Jon’s experiences on the North walls of Mount Alberta, Robson, and North Twin – but like a lot of conversations on The Firn Line, we started by talking about Jon’s early years, and how he got into climbing in the first place.

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See You Soon

Evan Phillips on October 14, 2020

In this special episode of The Firn Line, August Franzen, a young Alaskan alpinist, shares his story of climbing through life-changing love, and heart-wrenching grief.

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Challenge Of The Western Chugach

Evan Phillips on August 3, 2020

Today’s episode is a story about adventure. It’s a story about getting scared. It’s a story of friendship and love. It’s a story about self-discovery and learning from your mistakes. But the learning in this story doesn’t take place in a formal classroom, or an online forum. Rather, It takes place in the mountains – in a small sub-range of striking peaks and glaciers, just outside of Anchorage, Alaska.

It was in these peaks, known as the Western Chugach, where Brendon Lee’s life changed – in more ways than one. And like a lot of folks who end up in the north, Brendan’s journey to Alaska started very far away – on an Air Force base, in Texas…

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Persistence: Steve Swenson

Evan Phillips on May 11, 2020

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know legendary North American alpinist, Steve Swenson.

Over the course of a climbing career that has spanned a remarkable 50 years, Steve has left a lasting imprint on the world stage of alpinism, from his roots in the Pacific Northwest, all the way to the 7 and 8,000 meter giants of the Himalaya, and the Pakistani Karakoram.

His early climbs in the Canadian Rockies, which included an astounding list of classic north faces in the 1970’s, set the stage for other first ascents in Alaska and beyond.

But it was Steve’s love for the greater ranges, specifically the Karakoram, that became the biggest alpine pull in his life. Starting with a number of attempts in the early 80’s on Gasherbrum IV, Steve continually refined his style, and partnerships, to make ascents of giants like K2, Everest, and most-recently, one of the highest unclimbed mountains in the world – Link Sar.

I recently got a chance to speak with Steve about his enduring alpine career. We talked about his early climbs as a youngster growing up in the Pacific Northwest, as well as his new book, Karakoram: Climbing Through The Kashmir Conflict, which was released in 2017 by Mountaineers Books.

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Alaska Mountain Women

Evan Phillips on March 21, 2019

AK Mountain Women is an all-female group that loves human powered expeditions in Alaska. The goal of the group is to cultivate a strong community of local women dedicated to challenging and educating themselves and others about glacial mountaineering and big remote mountains.

Photo: Austin Siadak

Chris Kalman descends after bailing from an attempt on an unclimbed granite bigwall. Location: A remote valley in Coastal British Columbia. Photo: Austin Siadak

Chris Kalman racks up and prepares for the descent after summiting a previously unclimbed granite bigwall. Location: A remote valley in Coastal British Columbia. Photo: Austin Siadak

Wandering Writer: Chris Kalman

Evan Phillips on November 30, 2018

Growing up in the suburbs of northern Virginia, Chris Kalman was exposed to academia and team sports from a young age. But by the time he reached high school, he discovered rock climbing, and was instantly hooked. Always a deep thinker, the solitary process of combining fitness with problem solving appealed to him.

But it wasn’t until Kalman moved out west after college, to work trail crew at Rocky Mountain National Park, that a new world of adventure and self-discovery emerged.

Since that time, Kalman has forged an adventurous, almost Kerouac-style path thru life. This quest has taken him from the technical granite test pieces of Index, WA, to the sweeping big walls of Cochamo in southern Chile. But Chris’s search isn’t just about climbing. Rather, it’s a pursuit of self-examination, meaningful relationships with others, and a journey toward a deeper understanding of life.

Music

Evan Phillips