Following his grueling 145-day solo ascent of Mount Hunter’s South East Spur in 1978, Johnny Waterman’s life took a troubling turn. As his personal struggles intensified, a new team emerged to attempt the formidable route. Peter Metcalf, Glenn Randall, and Pete Athens set their sights on doing the climb in alpine style.

Thanks to Jon Waterman and Glenn Randall for their help in creating this story.  For more on the story of Johnny Waterman, check out Jon’s book,  In The Shadow of Denali.

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Recorded and produced by Evan Phillips
Music curated using Artlist and Epidemic Sound

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The post Ridge of Madness | Part Two appeared first on The Firn Line.

In 1978, an iconoclastic climber named Johnny Waterman spent 145 days soloing (and traversing) Mount Hunter. It was one of the boldest and strangest mountaineering feats of all time. But what could have been a launch pad into acclaim and prominence, turned into a descent of infamy and madness.  Meanwhile, a group of 3 young gun alpinists prepared to attempt the same route in alpine style.

Thanks to Jon Waterman and Glenn Randall for their help in creating this story.  For more on the story of Johnny Waterman, check out Jon’s book,  In The Shadow of Denali.

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Recorded and produced by Evan Phillips
Music curated using Artlist. 

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The post Ridge of Madness I Part One appeared first on The Firn Line.

While working on an upcoming 2-part series, I stumbled onto this interview with Alaskan author and adventurer, Roman Dial. We recorded this back in November 2017 and for some reason, I never got around to publishing it. Roman is a natural storyteller, so I’ve decided to leave this pretty raw with minimal editing. If you enjoy stories of adventure and unique characters from Alaska, this episode is for you.

Read Roman’s book, The Adventurer’s Son: A Memoir

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Recorded and produced by Evan Phillips
Music curated using Artlist. 

Check out Evan’s new single NOT OVER YOU!

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The post The Lost Tape: Roman Dial appeared first on The Firn Line.

A few months ago I had a conversation with climber, historian, writer and podcast producer, Christian Beckwith. He’s been working on this really incredible project called 90 Pound Rucksack, which details the remarkable history of the 10th Mountain Division and it’s influence on outdoor recreation in America

I have to admit, this chat was fun for me because I really do enjoy history and Christian – he’s basically an encyclopedia of information when it comes to the history of climbing in North America and the 10th Mountain Division.

So, if you’re interested in climbing, history, and the unique evolution of our sport, grab a beverage and settle in, cuz I think you’ll dig this conversation.

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Recorded and produced by Evan Phillips
Music curated using Artlist. 

Check out Evan’s new single NOT OVER YOU!

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The post 90 Pound Rucksack with Christian Beckwith appeared first on The Firn Line.

A few weeks ago I interviewed North American alpinist, Clint Helander, for a deep-dive feature I’m working on for The Firn Line.  At the end of the conversation, I wanted to have a little fun.  So we did a quick-fire back and forth on what we think the top 5 traits of an alpinist are.  It’s a short conversation, but it’s packed with knowledge and a good a bit of humor.

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Recorded and produced by Evan Phillips
Music curated using Artlist. 

Check out Evan’s new single NOT OVER YOU!

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The post 5 Traits of an Alpinist appeared first on The Firn Line.

Will Stanhope is a Squamish-based rock climber, who is known for his free solos, big adventures, and witty sense of humor. All of those avenues are explored in this conversation. We talk about his inspirations as a kid, how he got into climbing, who inspired him as a young climber, his most memorable free solo climbs, his memories of the late Marc Andre Leclerc, and more.

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Recorded and produced by Evan Phillips
Music curated using Artlist. 

Check out Evan’s new single NOT OVER YOU!

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The post A Conversation with Will Stanhope appeared first on The Firn Line.

The Cassin Ridge is the ultimate classic line on Denali, rising almost 10,000 directly up the middle of the South Face. First climbed in 1961 by a large Italian expedition led by Riccardo Cassin, the route continues to be a testing ground for alpinists to this day.

Recorded and produced by Evan Phillips
Music curated using Artlist. 

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The post The Cassin Ridge appeared first on The Firn Line.

During a stretch of amazing weather and conditions in April, 2024, Suzanna Lourie and her partner, Olga Dobranowski, made an ascent of the ultra-classic Ham & Eggs route on The Moose’s Tooth.  

The Moose’s Tooth is a rock peak in the Central Alaska Range, 15 miles southeast of Denali. Despite its low elevation, it’s a challenging climb due to its large rock faces and long ice couloirs. Its name comes from its structure, resembling a moose’s tooth with its long summit ridge and steep drops. The true summit is usually reached via steep couloirs on the southwest, as the west ridge route is very difficult.

Recorded and produced by Evan Phillips
Music curated using Artlist. 

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The post Trip Report: The Moose’s Tooth appeared first on The Firn Line.

When Fred Beckey and Ed Cooper climbed the Northwest Face on Forbidden Peak in 1959, they had to have known it was a classic route.  It had all the features mountaineers look for in a North Cascades alpine climb: an arduous and long approach, tricky navigation over crevasse-laden glaciers, and steep exposed climbing to a sharp pointed summit.  

Since that time, the Northwest Face of Forbidden Peak has become an ultra-classic mountaineering route, and is still regarded as a challenging climb for modern adventurers.

Written and produced by Evan Phillips
Music curated using Artlist. Artists include:

Then There Was You – Beneath The Mountain
My Home – Louis Island
Growth – Kyle Preston
Open Water – Alex Munk
A Ghost In Someones Body – Ben Reener
Light Storm – Taxi Letter Writers
Horizon – Dear Gravity

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The post Land of The Forbidden appeared first on The Firn Line.

Today, we’ll get to know Seattle-based author, climber, skier, and historian, Lowell Skoog. Lowell is a fixture in the Northwest outdoor scene, and has been exploring mountains in the Pacific Northwest for 60 years. In this conversation, we’ll talk about Lowell’s early years of exploration in the Cascades, some of the folks who’ve inspired him over the years, as well as his recent book, Written in The Snows.

Lowell is an encyclopedia of information when it comes to the Northwest and Cascade Mountains, and you’ll be hearing from him more this season. But for now, enjoy this conversation with Lowell Skoog.

Written and produced by Evan Phillips

Music by Evan Phillips

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Check out Lowell’s book Written in the Snows: Across Time on Skis in the Pacific Northwest

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The post A Conversation with Lowell Skoog appeared first on The Firn Line.

When Jamie Logan and Mugs Stump first ascended Mount Robson’s Emperor Face in July 1978, it was hailed as one of North America’s greatest alpine climbs.  Since then, the face has continued luring some of the world’s best climbers, maintaining it’s reputation as one of North America’s most enduring alpine walls.

Written and produced by Evan Phillips

Music by Evan Phillips
Additional music curated using Artlist. Artists include: Andrew Word, T Asco, Yehezkel Raz, Marshall Usinger, Evert Z, Steven Beddall

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The post The Emperor Face appeared first on The Firn Line.