Episode 16 // Short Ropes: Committed On The Cassin

 

Narrative

In June 2017, Aaron Kurland and Sam Novey planned to attempt the formidable and rarely-climbed Father and Sons wall on Denali, but when they found the face to be out of condition, they quickly turned their attention elsewhere.

The duo settled on the ultra-classic Cassin Ridge, a 9,000 foot spine of ice, snow and granite that snakes it’s way directly up the center of the south face. With a big storm scheduled to hit within the week, the duo planned a 3 day alpine-style ascent. Little did they know, they would soon be at the mercy of Denali’s weather, totally exposed, and fully committed on the Cassin.

Music

• Space Song / Evan & Molly / Evan & Molly (2012)
• Augusta / Evan Phillips / Unreleased (2017)
• Sexy Violence / Andy Tholberg / Unreleased (2017)
• Quad Laser / Andy Tholberg / Unreleased (2017)
• Sci Fly / Andy Tholberg / Unreleased (2017)
• Slow Motion Seq / Andy Tholberg / Unreleased(2017)
• Save My Soul / Andy Tholberg / Unreleased (2017)
• Can’t Bleed Thru A Microphone / Andy Tholberg / Unreleased (2017)
• Clad Frog / Andy Tholberg / Unreleased (2017)
• Posted Up / Andy Tholberg / Unreleased (2017)

 

The upper reaches of the initial objective; a new route on the Father and Son’s wall, eerily alive and ultimately ruled out of condition in favor of the ultra classic Cassin Ridge. Photo: Aaron Kurland
A brief lull of confidence inspiring weather at the base of the Cassin Ridge. Go time. Photo: Aaron Kurland
Committing in the eye of the storm. The view back towards the top of the Japanese couloir from the Cassin Legge (1st bivy), after much debate about committing past the point of no return in an unsettled forecast with minimal provisions. Photo: Aaron Kurland
Down the rabbit hole and pursuing an alpine dream. Approaching the Cassin via the West Rib. Positive vibes.
Stepping off the knife edge ridge, into the knight, and onto the hanging glacier. We soon were pinned down at the base of the first rock band (in the distance). Photo: Aaron Kurland
Mixed climbing on gorgeous granite in subpar weather, shortly before the Knife-Edge Ridge. Photo: Aaron Kurland
Sam Novey on the summit of Denali after a 7 day battle on the Cassin. Soon after, the weather turned and forced one last shiver bivy on the summit ridge. Depleted. Photo: Aaron Kurland
Happy, hungry, and alive: Walking down the final stretch to 14k camp after an epic battle on the Cassin in the worst weather Alaska has to offer. Photo: Aaron Kurland
Aaron’s dog “Dyno”. Photo: Aaron Kurland